17:22 up S. Ridge, pushed hard, but did not expect much more.
Ran a ways down, met Allison/Sierra, back up, down E. Ridge/Valley.
Sierra
Sierra
Thursday, May 21, 2009
Wednesday, May 20, 2009
Wednesday, 5/20/09 Green Mountain
Got out for a great run up Green after work today. Went SUPER easy, yet was only 42 seconds slower on the same route than I was yesterday morning where I busted my hump, go figure.
37:32 up
1:03 RT
37:32 up
1:03 RT
Monday, May 18, 2009
Jones, Shavano, Tabeguache, Espirit Point
Jones Peak (13,604)
5/16/09
~9 miles
~4,500 vertical
After getting camp set up near the Blank Gulch TH around mid afternoon in preparation for Shavano and Tabeguache the following day, I had a few hours to kill before dinner and the weather was nearly perfect, so I figured I would go explore and see if I could fit in a climb up Jones Peak.
I started off heading North on the Colorado Trail, went about a mile past the junction of the Shavano Trail, crossed Squaw Creek and headed NW, over a ridge, crossed another small creek and began climbing the SE ridge of the SE ridge. The bushwhacking was relatively easy up to about 11,000 feet, then the hill got a little steeper, a little rockier and a lot more vegetated with plenty of deadfall up to about 12,000 feet.
Before long, I emerged from the trees as the clouds that were previously enshrouding the peaks were mostly dissipating. The day was relatively warm and there was hardly a breeze. Up I went over Pt. 12,985 and got my first real view of the true summit. There were several rollers that could be easily skirted with some painless side hilling, a steepish climb to the summit, then a bit of confusion. There were several similar height summits along the ridge, then a much higher point almost all the way to Shavano. A quick check of the GPS confirmed that I was on the summit of Jones, but what is that other peak? Unfortunately, I don’t have time to keep going and have to be content with just Jones.
I promised Allison that I would not be gone long, so I tried to get back fast, but the steep/rocky/deadfall section between 12,000 and 11,000 feet was very slow and tedious, resulting in lots of slips, trips and curse words. Keeping my same line going down also turned out to be a bit of a challenge, so I occasionally referred to my GPS just to streamline things. Once I hit the Colorado Trail, I jogged the remainder of the way back to camp, regretting the heavy pack I carried, as I only needed my glove liners, GPS, camera and a bottle of water. Oh well, better safe than sorry.
Shavano, Tabeguache, Espirit Point
5/17/09
~11 miles
~5,600 vertical
Angel of Shavano from Blank Gulch TH
Allison, Sierra and I
The Angel is one of our favorite easy snowclimbs/glissades, so when Allison suggested the trip and the weather forecast looked to be perfect for Sunday, I was eager to go. We camped in a nice meadow just beyond the Blank Gulch TH and enjoyed a quiet night.
We arose a bit past 5, but were slow to get going, which did not happen until 6:22am. We made good time up the trail, passing several other groups of 1’s and 2’s. The trail was free of snow all the way to the point at which we began the bushwhack toward the base of the Angel. In the woods, there was a short stretch where there were sporadic patches of snow (no snowshoes necessary), but they could easily be avoided or crossed without any difficulty. At the base of the Angel, we took about 30+ minute break to gear up/fuel up before engaging the snow.
Conditions were soft, as it was 8:30am before we started climbing the snow, but very easy as the angle of the slope is pretty laid back. We decided on the right arm, hoping for a more direct line toward the summit, but the snow was discontinuous and we eventually removed the crampons/axe and made the final grind toward the summit which always looks much closer than it is. Having climbed each arm and the head in the past, I have determined that it does not matter which way you pick, it is all about the same.
I topped out at 9:55 and Allison was 7 minutes behind. She was very happy with that since it was earlier than she topped out last time, we started 22 minutes later AND she passed and put time on all the guys we passed.
Once on the summit of Shavano though, she was reminded how far it was over to Tabeguache and decided to turn me loose and have at it while she and Sierra took a break. Not wanting to keep her waiting long, I boogied over there at a quick pace on the mostly dry ridgeline down to the saddle, avoided most of the snow on the ascent of Tabeguache, then retraced my steps back to Shavano. For some reason I thought it was 15 minutes each way, but it ended up taking me 25 over and 21 back going pretty hard. Oops.
Back on Shavano, I finally relaxed a bit, taking a long break and soaking in the scenery. It was so calm, warm and sunny, it felt as though summer had truly arrived. On the way out, we tagged Espirit Point for kicks, before the much anticipated glissade down the Angel. Lots of whoops and hollers as we sped down, Sierra sprinting and pouncing along side.
It was such a nice day, we took our sweet time walking out, finishing the day at 2:40pm and reluctantly drove home, wishing we could do it all over again.
http://s147.photobucket.com/albums/r296/jeffvalliere/2009_05_09_Jones_Tab_Shav/
5/16/09
~9 miles
~4,500 vertical
After getting camp set up near the Blank Gulch TH around mid afternoon in preparation for Shavano and Tabeguache the following day, I had a few hours to kill before dinner and the weather was nearly perfect, so I figured I would go explore and see if I could fit in a climb up Jones Peak.
I started off heading North on the Colorado Trail, went about a mile past the junction of the Shavano Trail, crossed Squaw Creek and headed NW, over a ridge, crossed another small creek and began climbing the SE ridge of the SE ridge. The bushwhacking was relatively easy up to about 11,000 feet, then the hill got a little steeper, a little rockier and a lot more vegetated with plenty of deadfall up to about 12,000 feet.
Before long, I emerged from the trees as the clouds that were previously enshrouding the peaks were mostly dissipating. The day was relatively warm and there was hardly a breeze. Up I went over Pt. 12,985 and got my first real view of the true summit. There were several rollers that could be easily skirted with some painless side hilling, a steepish climb to the summit, then a bit of confusion. There were several similar height summits along the ridge, then a much higher point almost all the way to Shavano. A quick check of the GPS confirmed that I was on the summit of Jones, but what is that other peak? Unfortunately, I don’t have time to keep going and have to be content with just Jones.
I promised Allison that I would not be gone long, so I tried to get back fast, but the steep/rocky/deadfall section between 12,000 and 11,000 feet was very slow and tedious, resulting in lots of slips, trips and curse words. Keeping my same line going down also turned out to be a bit of a challenge, so I occasionally referred to my GPS just to streamline things. Once I hit the Colorado Trail, I jogged the remainder of the way back to camp, regretting the heavy pack I carried, as I only needed my glove liners, GPS, camera and a bottle of water. Oh well, better safe than sorry.
Shavano, Tabeguache, Espirit Point
5/17/09
~11 miles
~5,600 vertical
Angel of Shavano from Blank Gulch TH
Allison, Sierra and I
The Angel is one of our favorite easy snowclimbs/glissades, so when Allison suggested the trip and the weather forecast looked to be perfect for Sunday, I was eager to go. We camped in a nice meadow just beyond the Blank Gulch TH and enjoyed a quiet night.
We arose a bit past 5, but were slow to get going, which did not happen until 6:22am. We made good time up the trail, passing several other groups of 1’s and 2’s. The trail was free of snow all the way to the point at which we began the bushwhack toward the base of the Angel. In the woods, there was a short stretch where there were sporadic patches of snow (no snowshoes necessary), but they could easily be avoided or crossed without any difficulty. At the base of the Angel, we took about 30+ minute break to gear up/fuel up before engaging the snow.
Conditions were soft, as it was 8:30am before we started climbing the snow, but very easy as the angle of the slope is pretty laid back. We decided on the right arm, hoping for a more direct line toward the summit, but the snow was discontinuous and we eventually removed the crampons/axe and made the final grind toward the summit which always looks much closer than it is. Having climbed each arm and the head in the past, I have determined that it does not matter which way you pick, it is all about the same.
I topped out at 9:55 and Allison was 7 minutes behind. She was very happy with that since it was earlier than she topped out last time, we started 22 minutes later AND she passed and put time on all the guys we passed.
Once on the summit of Shavano though, she was reminded how far it was over to Tabeguache and decided to turn me loose and have at it while she and Sierra took a break. Not wanting to keep her waiting long, I boogied over there at a quick pace on the mostly dry ridgeline down to the saddle, avoided most of the snow on the ascent of Tabeguache, then retraced my steps back to Shavano. For some reason I thought it was 15 minutes each way, but it ended up taking me 25 over and 21 back going pretty hard. Oops.
Back on Shavano, I finally relaxed a bit, taking a long break and soaking in the scenery. It was so calm, warm and sunny, it felt as though summer had truly arrived. On the way out, we tagged Espirit Point for kicks, before the much anticipated glissade down the Angel. Lots of whoops and hollers as we sped down, Sierra sprinting and pouncing along side.
It was such a nice day, we took our sweet time walking out, finishing the day at 2:40pm and reluctantly drove home, wishing we could do it all over again.
http://s147.photobucket.com/albums/r296/jeffvalliere/2009_05_09_Jones_Tab_Shav/
Thursday, May 14, 2009
Wednesday, 05/13/09 Torreys and Grays via NW Face
Torreys via NW Face/Grays Peak
5/13/09
~14 miles
5,060 vertical
Bakerville Winter TH
Partner: Sierra
Our recent climb of Guyot made me realize how much I have been missing the high peaks and the small section of using crampons and axe had me wanting more. For years I have been eyeing the NW Face (climb 2.12, p. 27 in Roach’s 2nd edition Fourteeners book) and Emperor Couloir, but have never made it over there. Since I could not stir up any partners aside from Sierra at the last minute on a Wednesday, I opted for the easier option.
I started up the road at 7:00am and got a great pull from Sierra on the leash, as a blue pickup truck passed and she was sure that it was Dave Hale and her doggie buddies and wanted to chase. I tried to convince her that Dave drives a Toyota, not a Dodge, but she was having none of it.
We reached the Grizzly Gulch turn in 15 minutes and from there to the summit, it would be new scenery for me. After enjoying a snow free cruise from Bakerville, I was forced into my snowshoes about 1/5 mile beyond the junction. Soon there were some secondary junctions with tracks leading in multiple directions. I always picked the more travelled looking path, knowing I need to stay on “the road” for quite some distance. Sooner than expected, the road I was on ended at a mine and there was no sign of trail, road, track or anything.
Not wanting to backtrack, I made my way into the thickly vegetated woods along the creek bed and was bogged down in the bottomless sugar snow. My heart rate was maxed and I was going nowhere. To my right, I spied a S. facing, but steep slope and headed for it. After a few choice words, a reachy acrobatic creek jump with snowshoes from icy rock to a mystery landing, I made it up the dry slope and regained my intended route on the snow covered dirt road.
The snow was mostly packed if I stayed on old tracks, but with all the snow and having never been up Grizzly Gulch, the route was not always obvious. I made it to a point in the valley directly under the NW Face at 11,160 at 8:15am and took 15 minutes to get geared up for the climb. Initially, after swapping snowshoes for crampons, I was having trouble staying on top of the crust and was post holing, regretting the choice to put on crampons so early. Soon, the slope steepened enough that snowshoes would have done no good, as I worked hard to surpass the initial bench to get to the actual base of the mountain.
As I approached the base, the snow firmed up a bit and conditions were perfect for kicking steps. I initially made good progress as the wind was mellow, snow conditions were good and the temperature was just right. Before long, I started to look up and make guesstimates of when I may top out. I was thinking just 10-15 minutes more, for what seemed like forever, but a quick glance to the right revealed that I was not even as high as Grizzly Peak (only 13,427). I was hoping to just cruise up, but was instead getting discouraged with my slow pace and occasional pauses to catch my breath (although at the time justified it as taking in the views). Then things got interesting as the full brunt of the winds raking the divide picked up in earnest.
The wind sounded like a jet roaring overhead, I would look up and see a swirling blizzard of wind driven snow racing down the snow slope toward me. I would bury my axe, make sure both feet were firmly embedded and just hang on, as I watched snow fill the cuff of my glove. I have better mittens in my pack, but there was no way I was going to dig for them now. Between bursts, I would step step, plant (axe), step step, plant as quickly and safely as I could through the wind deposited powder on top of semi-breakable crust, all the while keeping tabs on the next assault from above.
After what seemed like an eternity, I finally gained the ridge close to the summit and was reminded what real wind was all about. I skulked along the wide, gentle, snow covered ridge toward the top, but needed to plant my axe more than once to not get blown off. Sierra crept along low to the ground, keeping close to me, though all the while smiling and wagging her tail.
I was starting to bonk and was really getting cold, as it felt more like winter than May. I tagged the summit and immediately noticed that there was no place to hide, so down I went toward the Grays/Torreys saddle without breaking stride. From past experience, I knew there would be no respite at or near the saddle, so I decided to blow off Grays and just quickly drop off the saddle in hopes of finding some shelter.
My toes were about as cold as I can ever remember from being compressed by the crampon straps and front pointing for nearly 3,000 feet and I was starting to feel a bit desperate. As I descended, they started to warm, but it felt like thousands of stinging needles and my toes felt as if they were swollen. Surprisingly, they felt somewhat better in the 10 minutes or so it took me to reach the saddle, but the wind was not relenting.
Being stubborn, and a glutton for punishment, I decided to give Grays a shot, even though I was feeling a bit worked. By staying a bit below the ridge to the left as I ascended, I was able to stay mostly out of the wind, but it meant dealing with deep snow with unpredictable talus underneath. Though difficult, it was far better than dealing with the hurricane force wind.
Fortunately, there was enough of a wind shadow behind the summit rocks that I could collapse in a fetal position, pant, gasp, groan and put down some gel, water and a few Clif Shot Bloks. Once recovered, I remembered that I had a camera with me, took a few photos, enjoyed the views and was able to remember why I love coming up here so much.
On the descent, I was able to piece together mostly consolidated patches of snow and kept my crampons on all the way to just beyond the Kelso ridge jct. and was actually thankful to have them on in at least one spot, as the summer trail had disappeared under a steep snow slope. I think there is more snow up in Stevens Gulch now than I have ever seen.
The trip out was a cruise for the most part, as I was able to stay on top of the crust with my snowshoes and post holing was minimal. A truck had made it to within a mile of the summer trailhead, but it looked like an effort. The drive to the steep section of road by the first houses is almost completely melted out and would be easy to drive there if you have 4wd/clearance.
Splits:
Start Bakerville: 7:00am
Grizzly Gulch Turn: 7:15am
Base of climb at 11,160 8:15am
Start climb: 8:30am
Torreys Summit: 10:40am
Grays Summit: 11:17am
Summer TH: 12:40pm
Finish Bakerville: 1:24pm
Pictures:
http://s147.photobucket.com/albums/r296/jeffvalliere/2009_05_13_Torreys/
5/13/09
~14 miles
5,060 vertical
Bakerville Winter TH
Partner: Sierra
Our recent climb of Guyot made me realize how much I have been missing the high peaks and the small section of using crampons and axe had me wanting more. For years I have been eyeing the NW Face (climb 2.12, p. 27 in Roach’s 2nd edition Fourteeners book) and Emperor Couloir, but have never made it over there. Since I could not stir up any partners aside from Sierra at the last minute on a Wednesday, I opted for the easier option.
I started up the road at 7:00am and got a great pull from Sierra on the leash, as a blue pickup truck passed and she was sure that it was Dave Hale and her doggie buddies and wanted to chase. I tried to convince her that Dave drives a Toyota, not a Dodge, but she was having none of it.
We reached the Grizzly Gulch turn in 15 minutes and from there to the summit, it would be new scenery for me. After enjoying a snow free cruise from Bakerville, I was forced into my snowshoes about 1/5 mile beyond the junction. Soon there were some secondary junctions with tracks leading in multiple directions. I always picked the more travelled looking path, knowing I need to stay on “the road” for quite some distance. Sooner than expected, the road I was on ended at a mine and there was no sign of trail, road, track or anything.
Not wanting to backtrack, I made my way into the thickly vegetated woods along the creek bed and was bogged down in the bottomless sugar snow. My heart rate was maxed and I was going nowhere. To my right, I spied a S. facing, but steep slope and headed for it. After a few choice words, a reachy acrobatic creek jump with snowshoes from icy rock to a mystery landing, I made it up the dry slope and regained my intended route on the snow covered dirt road.
The snow was mostly packed if I stayed on old tracks, but with all the snow and having never been up Grizzly Gulch, the route was not always obvious. I made it to a point in the valley directly under the NW Face at 11,160 at 8:15am and took 15 minutes to get geared up for the climb. Initially, after swapping snowshoes for crampons, I was having trouble staying on top of the crust and was post holing, regretting the choice to put on crampons so early. Soon, the slope steepened enough that snowshoes would have done no good, as I worked hard to surpass the initial bench to get to the actual base of the mountain.
As I approached the base, the snow firmed up a bit and conditions were perfect for kicking steps. I initially made good progress as the wind was mellow, snow conditions were good and the temperature was just right. Before long, I started to look up and make guesstimates of when I may top out. I was thinking just 10-15 minutes more, for what seemed like forever, but a quick glance to the right revealed that I was not even as high as Grizzly Peak (only 13,427). I was hoping to just cruise up, but was instead getting discouraged with my slow pace and occasional pauses to catch my breath (although at the time justified it as taking in the views). Then things got interesting as the full brunt of the winds raking the divide picked up in earnest.
The wind sounded like a jet roaring overhead, I would look up and see a swirling blizzard of wind driven snow racing down the snow slope toward me. I would bury my axe, make sure both feet were firmly embedded and just hang on, as I watched snow fill the cuff of my glove. I have better mittens in my pack, but there was no way I was going to dig for them now. Between bursts, I would step step, plant (axe), step step, plant as quickly and safely as I could through the wind deposited powder on top of semi-breakable crust, all the while keeping tabs on the next assault from above.
After what seemed like an eternity, I finally gained the ridge close to the summit and was reminded what real wind was all about. I skulked along the wide, gentle, snow covered ridge toward the top, but needed to plant my axe more than once to not get blown off. Sierra crept along low to the ground, keeping close to me, though all the while smiling and wagging her tail.
I was starting to bonk and was really getting cold, as it felt more like winter than May. I tagged the summit and immediately noticed that there was no place to hide, so down I went toward the Grays/Torreys saddle without breaking stride. From past experience, I knew there would be no respite at or near the saddle, so I decided to blow off Grays and just quickly drop off the saddle in hopes of finding some shelter.
My toes were about as cold as I can ever remember from being compressed by the crampon straps and front pointing for nearly 3,000 feet and I was starting to feel a bit desperate. As I descended, they started to warm, but it felt like thousands of stinging needles and my toes felt as if they were swollen. Surprisingly, they felt somewhat better in the 10 minutes or so it took me to reach the saddle, but the wind was not relenting.
Being stubborn, and a glutton for punishment, I decided to give Grays a shot, even though I was feeling a bit worked. By staying a bit below the ridge to the left as I ascended, I was able to stay mostly out of the wind, but it meant dealing with deep snow with unpredictable talus underneath. Though difficult, it was far better than dealing with the hurricane force wind.
Fortunately, there was enough of a wind shadow behind the summit rocks that I could collapse in a fetal position, pant, gasp, groan and put down some gel, water and a few Clif Shot Bloks. Once recovered, I remembered that I had a camera with me, took a few photos, enjoyed the views and was able to remember why I love coming up here so much.
On the descent, I was able to piece together mostly consolidated patches of snow and kept my crampons on all the way to just beyond the Kelso ridge jct. and was actually thankful to have them on in at least one spot, as the summer trail had disappeared under a steep snow slope. I think there is more snow up in Stevens Gulch now than I have ever seen.
The trip out was a cruise for the most part, as I was able to stay on top of the crust with my snowshoes and post holing was minimal. A truck had made it to within a mile of the summer trailhead, but it looked like an effort. The drive to the steep section of road by the first houses is almost completely melted out and would be easy to drive there if you have 4wd/clearance.
Splits:
Start Bakerville: 7:00am
Grizzly Gulch Turn: 7:15am
Base of climb at 11,160 8:15am
Start climb: 8:30am
Torreys Summit: 10:40am
Grays Summit: 11:17am
Summer TH: 12:40pm
Finish Bakerville: 1:24pm
Pictures:
http://s147.photobucket.com/albums/r296/jeffvalliere/2009_05_13_Torreys/
Monday, May 11, 2009
Monday, 05/11/09 Bear Peak/S. Boulder Peak
I decided I needed to go somewhat hard today, so I took a shot at Bear Peak as a bit of a fitness reality check. From the first step, I felt lousy. Nothing in particular was bugging me, I was just a bit lethargic, had little energy and was generally not into it (into being outside, just not into railing it).
I pressed on and my time checks were decent, so I faked it for a bit, but knew by the saddle that I was not able to fake it for much longer, the charade was over. From the time I got on the Fern Canyon Trail, all the way to the summit, I was power hiking mostly and only ran several very short sections. I made it to the post near the summit in 39:49 and was only moderately satisfied, as I was hoping to be under 40, but was secretly hoping I would do better than that.
I know I am not at my best yet, but was secretly hoping for at least a minute better than this. Perhaps I could better this a bit if I felt a little better to start, who knows. From the post, I cruised over the true summit, hopped down the rocks on the West side and jogged over to S. Boulder at a more conservative pace. I backtracked to Bear and then descended Fern, just cruising, never pushing. Not a bad day, not a great day.
Splits:
Cragmoor TH 0:00
Shanahan Jct. 2:50
Doggy Mud Pond Jct. 4:30
Mesa Trail 13:30
Saddle 25:58
Bear 39:49
S. Boulder 51:5?
Bear 1:01:??
Saddle 1:09
Finish 1:28
I pressed on and my time checks were decent, so I faked it for a bit, but knew by the saddle that I was not able to fake it for much longer, the charade was over. From the time I got on the Fern Canyon Trail, all the way to the summit, I was power hiking mostly and only ran several very short sections. I made it to the post near the summit in 39:49 and was only moderately satisfied, as I was hoping to be under 40, but was secretly hoping I would do better than that.
I know I am not at my best yet, but was secretly hoping for at least a minute better than this. Perhaps I could better this a bit if I felt a little better to start, who knows. From the post, I cruised over the true summit, hopped down the rocks on the West side and jogged over to S. Boulder at a more conservative pace. I backtracked to Bear and then descended Fern, just cruising, never pushing. Not a bad day, not a great day.
Splits:
Cragmoor TH 0:00
Shanahan Jct. 2:50
Doggy Mud Pond Jct. 4:30
Mesa Trail 13:30
Saddle 25:58
Bear 39:49
S. Boulder 51:5?
Bear 1:01:??
Saddle 1:09
Finish 1:28
Sunday, May 10, 2009
Saturday, 05/09/09 Mt. Guyot
Mt. Guyot (13,370)
05/09/09
Ascend E. Ridge
Descend SE. Ridge
~9 miles
~3,000 vertical
Jeff and Allison Valliere, Dave and Emily Hale, Sharon Hale (to Ga. Pass), Sierra, Shep, Kiefer, Sophie
After a week of bouncing around different ideas, none really sticking, Dave suggested that we give Mt. Guyot a shot. I have often times eyed Guyot’s symmetrical East Ridge driving past on 285 and it has been on my list for many years.
The Hales camped Friday night at the Michigan Creek Campground, where we met them around 7:45am on Saturday morning. From the campground, we drove another ~2 miles or so on the Michigan Creek Road toward Georgia Pass where we were stopped by several snow drifts about ¼ mile from where the road crosses French Creek. For a long way, the walk along the road was mostly dry, save for several inconsequential sections of snow to cross. About a mile or so below the pass, snow became the dominant theme and we donned our long dormant snowshoes.
The slowshoe plod to Georgia Pass was a breeze on hard packed and well consolidated snow as we followed faint snowmobile tracks. From the sign on the pass at 11,500, we turned West, walked for a short distance over rolling snowdrifts and through the final remaining trees/krumholtz. As the wind scoured East Ridge became more pronounced and steepened, we packed up the snowshoes and began the stiff climb on loose talus.Soon, Dave and I became a bit annoyed with the steep and somewhat loose talus, so we veered a bit to climbers left onto the snow in search of easier walking. Conditions were perfect for easily kicking steps and we made efficient upward progress, all the while keeping close to the rocks as to not temp any trap door cornices.
Once at the false summit, perhaps less that 100 vertical/300 lateral feet from the true summit, we could see the remaining difficulties (that we were aware of from our pre-trip research) which consisted of a somewhat narrow, knife edged corniced ridge. Staying on the ridge proper would not be that steep, but the potential for a cornice collapse, dropping you 1,000+ vertical to the left is significant. To avoid this danger, one must stay a bit right below the ridgeline on ever steepening snow which is above LONG and steep snow/talus slopes. A fall here would certainly be bad news.Emily had no crampons or axe and opted not to continue on. Allison had crampons/axe and agreed to consider it after I tried it and gave report. Dave had an axe, but only Kahtoola Microspikes.
I started along the final section, very confident with my axe and crampon placements, knowing the snow was in perfect condition. The snow steepened and I got great purchase with all points and felt great, all the while reminding myself of the increasing exposure beneath my feet and to not become complacent. I made a last cautious mantle move over a hardened drift and was on the summit. The views were great and I strolled around for a bit taking pictures while waiting for Dave.I looked back down and saw him slowly ascending and could see that he was uneasy with his less than optimal traction.
I carefully walked down to meet him, the exposure now more apparent and we backtracked to a safer area. His Microspikes were not at all adequate for this type of terrain and I offered him my crampons. Since his feet are so much larger, he thought his boots would not fit, but luckily they extended far enough and he was able to complete the climb with relative ease.Allison and Emily were kicking back in the warm sun on the sub summit, keeping track of our progress and ultimately made the decision that they were content where they were.
Before long, we all reconvened, took a long break and then cautiously descended the SE Ridge down the variable snowfields and talus. At treeline, snowshoes were required once again and we made the easy trek back to the cars.All in all a perfect day. A great climb in excellent weather with great company. It was awesome to be back in the high mountains again after a near 2 month hiatus. Thanks for planning Dave!
Pictures:
http://s147.photobucket.com/albums/r296/jeffvalliere/2009_05_09_Guyot/
05/09/09
Ascend E. Ridge
Descend SE. Ridge
~9 miles
~3,000 vertical
Jeff and Allison Valliere, Dave and Emily Hale, Sharon Hale (to Ga. Pass), Sierra, Shep, Kiefer, Sophie
After a week of bouncing around different ideas, none really sticking, Dave suggested that we give Mt. Guyot a shot. I have often times eyed Guyot’s symmetrical East Ridge driving past on 285 and it has been on my list for many years.
The Hales camped Friday night at the Michigan Creek Campground, where we met them around 7:45am on Saturday morning. From the campground, we drove another ~2 miles or so on the Michigan Creek Road toward Georgia Pass where we were stopped by several snow drifts about ¼ mile from where the road crosses French Creek. For a long way, the walk along the road was mostly dry, save for several inconsequential sections of snow to cross. About a mile or so below the pass, snow became the dominant theme and we donned our long dormant snowshoes.
The slowshoe plod to Georgia Pass was a breeze on hard packed and well consolidated snow as we followed faint snowmobile tracks. From the sign on the pass at 11,500, we turned West, walked for a short distance over rolling snowdrifts and through the final remaining trees/krumholtz. As the wind scoured East Ridge became more pronounced and steepened, we packed up the snowshoes and began the stiff climb on loose talus.Soon, Dave and I became a bit annoyed with the steep and somewhat loose talus, so we veered a bit to climbers left onto the snow in search of easier walking. Conditions were perfect for easily kicking steps and we made efficient upward progress, all the while keeping close to the rocks as to not temp any trap door cornices.
Once at the false summit, perhaps less that 100 vertical/300 lateral feet from the true summit, we could see the remaining difficulties (that we were aware of from our pre-trip research) which consisted of a somewhat narrow, knife edged corniced ridge. Staying on the ridge proper would not be that steep, but the potential for a cornice collapse, dropping you 1,000+ vertical to the left is significant. To avoid this danger, one must stay a bit right below the ridgeline on ever steepening snow which is above LONG and steep snow/talus slopes. A fall here would certainly be bad news.Emily had no crampons or axe and opted not to continue on. Allison had crampons/axe and agreed to consider it after I tried it and gave report. Dave had an axe, but only Kahtoola Microspikes.
I started along the final section, very confident with my axe and crampon placements, knowing the snow was in perfect condition. The snow steepened and I got great purchase with all points and felt great, all the while reminding myself of the increasing exposure beneath my feet and to not become complacent. I made a last cautious mantle move over a hardened drift and was on the summit. The views were great and I strolled around for a bit taking pictures while waiting for Dave.I looked back down and saw him slowly ascending and could see that he was uneasy with his less than optimal traction.
I carefully walked down to meet him, the exposure now more apparent and we backtracked to a safer area. His Microspikes were not at all adequate for this type of terrain and I offered him my crampons. Since his feet are so much larger, he thought his boots would not fit, but luckily they extended far enough and he was able to complete the climb with relative ease.Allison and Emily were kicking back in the warm sun on the sub summit, keeping track of our progress and ultimately made the decision that they were content where they were.
Before long, we all reconvened, took a long break and then cautiously descended the SE Ridge down the variable snowfields and talus. At treeline, snowshoes were required once again and we made the easy trek back to the cars.All in all a perfect day. A great climb in excellent weather with great company. It was awesome to be back in the high mountains again after a near 2 month hiatus. Thanks for planning Dave!
Pictures:
http://s147.photobucket.com/albums/r296/jeffvalliere/2009_05_09_Guyot/
Monday, May 4, 2009
Monday, 5/04/09 Green Mountain
Sierra and I had a nice evening run up Green via Gregory/Ranger.
Of course she was lagging, sniffing, dawdling, but I took her knowing that I was intending to go easyish and she ensures that (although I felt great and was itching to go fast). I finally put her on leash since I was a bit sick of stopping to call her to me and we picked up the pace just a bit and actually started to go at a decent pace. Many of the fallen trees have been cleaned up, but several are still completely blocking the trail, not sure why they skipped these since they removed trees above and below.
Made the top in 45:25, down in 31 for a 1:16 RT.
Of course she was lagging, sniffing, dawdling, but I took her knowing that I was intending to go easyish and she ensures that (although I felt great and was itching to go fast). I finally put her on leash since I was a bit sick of stopping to call her to me and we picked up the pace just a bit and actually started to go at a decent pace. Many of the fallen trees have been cleaned up, but several are still completely blocking the trail, not sure why they skipped these since they removed trees above and below.
Made the top in 45:25, down in 31 for a 1:16 RT.
Sunday, May 3, 2009
5/3/09 Sanitas x 2 and Anemone
Allison proposed that we head to Sanitas, in search of warm and dry trails. We parked at Settlers Park and warmed up over Red Rocks. My plan was to run "fast" up the S. ridge while she and Sierra took Dakota Ridge to the Eastern ascent and I would meet them along the way. After an all too brief warm up, I started my watch and was immidiately going a somewhat quick, but seemingly comfortable pace. I kept upping the intensity and knew I was moving well and was hoping to sneak in under 18, but in the back of my mind, I was sure I was going to be closer to 17. A little past the 1/2 way mark, I started to feel a bit of burn that I just could not shake off, so I backed it down a touch and hit the top at 17:44. I was reasonably happy with that, especially since I have not been too focused on going fast for a long time, only a couple runs this year where I really pushed. I think I am getting to the point where I have laid down enough base and endurance and need to start upping the intensity a few times per week.
I briefly caught my breath at the summit and continued down the other side where I met Allison and Sierra at the sign board where the valley trail really starts to climb back up the Eastern flanks of Sanitas. I went down and past Allison for a bit, turned and worked hard to catch back up to her while Sierra paced me along.
From the summit, we headed back down the S. Ridge, headed up Anemone to the high point and came back down. Not a bad way to spend a Sunday morning.
I briefly caught my breath at the summit and continued down the other side where I met Allison and Sierra at the sign board where the valley trail really starts to climb back up the Eastern flanks of Sanitas. I went down and past Allison for a bit, turned and worked hard to catch back up to her while Sierra paced me along.
From the summit, we headed back down the S. Ridge, headed up Anemone to the high point and came back down. Not a bad way to spend a Sunday morning.
Thursday, April 30, 2009
Thursday, 04/30/09 S. Boulder and Bear
Had a sweet run with GZ today up S. Boulder and Bear. Went a moderate pace, which was fine with me as I am still not feeling totally recovered from RRR (although much better each day now). It was great to catch up with George, as I was injured for 6 weeks, then as soon as I healed, George got an achilles injury that he is now bouncing back from. We went conversation pace all the way to the saddle, then I upped the pace a bit, since I wanted to tag Bear as well. Made the summit in 56:54, got back to the saddle at 1:00 even I think, Bear at 1:05:53 and then met back up with George just above the saddle on the Bear side. We went down quick, but not really killing it and this is where I was still getting the biggest hints that I am not recovered, as my calves were pretty tight by the time we finished at 1:44:15. It was a great day for a run, cool, but not cold and the trails are mostly melted out.
Today was my 3rd day on the prototype Pearlizumi Fuel XC shoes, one of two pairs currently in existence. Scott Jaime has the other pair. I could comment on them, but then I would have to kill you. You'll just have to settle for a picture.....
Sunday, April 26, 2009
Sunday, 4/26/09 Green via Flag
Dave and I met up for a mellow run today up Flag, over to Green and then down the treefall route (Greenman/Saddle/Amphi). Dave was not feeling well due to a cold and I am still recovering from the Grand Canyon, so it felt great to go mellow and catch up with Dave as it has been a while since we have run together. My legs actually felt OK on the up, but it was the down that reminded me how not recovered I am, not to mention these outings tire me out more than normal as of late, even though I have been going super easy. Made it up in a very pedestrian 1:03 (jogging, walking and performing a bit of trail maintenance), then finished up in 1:39 total. Got done just in time, as it was starting to rain a bit, I would not want to risk melting....
Saturday, 4/25/09 Green Mountain
Despite the gloomy weather (40 degrees, rain, fog, snow mix), Allison and I took a trip up Green Mountain via the Amphitheater, Saddle Rock, Greenman route. I knew there would be the possibility for downed trees based on the previous day's outing up Gregory/Ranger, but was still a bit shocked at the sheer destructive magnitude of the recent blizzard. 15-30 foot high stumps jutted up all around while the tops of the trees littered the trail and surrounding forest. It was almost like there had been a major clear cut, or tornadic activity of some sort. Some of these trees were quite large and tipped completely over, exposing their root system and creating some tedious obstacles for would be runners.
Although the weather and trail conditions were lousy, there were a surprising number of people up on the mountain, several with kids in backpacks. We descended the Ranger/Gregory route as it is much more passable now with fewer/smaller/easier to navigate downed trees.
Up in 57, down in 50ish.
Anybody have a chain saw? I would love to go up there and help clear out some trees (probably not permitted though by OSMP.....).
The following pictures of Allison and Sierra are irrelevant to the trip, but I just like them, a bright spot on a cloudy day.
Friday, April 24, 2009
Friday, 4/24/09 Green Mountain
Sierra and I met Tim for a trip up Green today. I felt a good bit of improvement over yesterday, like I could actually move at a reasonable rate if I tried, but kept the pace very mellow as to not hamper my recovery in any way. Just glad to be able to get out on the trails and enjoy the perfect weather and not feel as though I am going to fall over or need to be heli-lifted off the mountain. There were MANY downed trees across the trail from the recent snowstorm, yet most of the snow has melted on the Gregory/Ranger route, so the going was not as tedious as the post hole fest yesterday above the S. Boulder/Bear saddle. Awesome day.
Up in 52
Down in 40
Up in 52
Down in 40
Thursday, April 23, 2009
Thursday, 4/23/09 S. Boulder Peak
After two painful days on the bike, I figured a walk in the hills might help relieve a little stiffness in my legs. I decided to head up S. Boulder Peak, as I was interested to see what remained of this fabled snowstorm. The going was slow, then I hit some snow and it was even slower, then it even slowed more above the saddle as I postholed in shorts all the way to the summit. I made the summit in 1:33, even Sierra was waiting for me, wondering what the heck was up.
The descent was tricky in the snow, compounded by my weak legs. I ended up pulling off the descent in a lightning fast 1:21 for a 2:56 RT (including breaks). This might be an all time slow solo trip for me, but it felt great just to be outside on such a nice day, not to mention the coolness of the deep snow felt great on my sore and tired legs.
The descent was tricky in the snow, compounded by my weak legs. I ended up pulling off the descent in a lightning fast 1:21 for a 2:56 RT (including breaks). This might be an all time slow solo trip for me, but it felt great just to be outside on such a nice day, not to mention the coolness of the deep snow felt great on my sore and tired legs.
Monday, April 20, 2009
Grand Canyon Rim to Rim to Rim, 04/18/09
Grand Canyon Rim to Rim to Rim
S. Rim to the N. Rim and back via the South and North Kaibab trails.
~43 miles
~11,000 vertical feet
4/18/09
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As I struggle back up the S. Kaibab Trail, hands on my knees, head down, I keep the bill of my hat positioned so I can only see 20-30 feet ahead maximum. I don’t dare look up and see how far I have to go, I only want to focus on immediately finding the most efficient line over or alongside the now seemingly insurmountable and infinite steps. Occasionally I glance down toward the river to mark my progress and check my watch. Although my legs are cramping and I am nearly out of water, the temperature is very reasonable compared to my last attempt at the RRR nearly 3 years ago. I am in pain, but nothing compared to before and I can taste the finish.
Ahhhh that little run 3 years ago. I confidently thought I could go down and put in a sub 10 hour time on my first try (despite it being my longest run ever by 15 miles), yet 95 degree heat and overall inexperience at running long distances thwarted my efforts and I ran a somewhat disappointing 10:23:42. I was severely dehydrated and was in borderline need of an IV and some general TLC by the time I finished. Despite the suffering, this ranked at the top of the list of all time cool things I have done, certainly my most epic run ever. The trail is phenomenal and generally in great shape for running, the scenery is out of this world and nothing motivates me more than a run as epic as this.
After I recovered a bit, I vowed that I would return soon, hope for a cooler day and employ all the lessons that I learned on my previous trip and gather all the knowledge I could from some of my experienced ultra running friends (Jason Halladay, Bill Geist, Dave Mackey, Tim Long amongst others). That day would not come until this past Saturday, April 18th, 2009.
It unfortunately took me 3 years to get back to the Grand Canyon for a slew of reasons and almost did not make it there this year due to an IT band injury in Feb/March which prevented me from running hard and eliminated any downhill running for quite some time. About two weeks prior to the trip, I decided that despite not putting in much quality downhill running, I felt as though I was reasonably fit and I had no lingering problems with my IT band or any other joints or ligaments for that matter, so why not give it a go?
At nearly the last minute, I got on board with Bob Dawson’s group, his 7th annual trip to the Grand Canyon for the Rim to Rim to Rim where I was to be part of a loose knit group of 20+ people, many with different goals, but all with the same primary objective. We all met for dinner the previous evening where plans got discussed and we all formed sub-groups based on desired route and predicted time. I was planning on meeting Gerry’s friend Ricky Denesik at the S. Kaibab TH a bit before 5:30am to run with him. I had met Ricky briefly back in February on a short hike with the Roach’s and was eager to run with him, as he is a great guy who happens to be the former 14er record holder, Hardrock 100 winner and was 3rd at Hardrock in 2008, so I knew he would be a strong running partner (if I could keep up). When speaking with him on the phone however, he indicated that he was getting sick, so I was not sure what to expect.
That evening, Wayne Herrick, a good friend who was also along on the trip indicated that he wanted to start with us and keep pace at least to Phantom Ranch, so I was stoked to have Wayne along for additional company.
After falling asleep at 8pm on Friday evening, wake up time came a bit early on Saturday morning as Hoot and Dwight, who I was sharing a room with, were up at 1:45am. They were very quiet and efficient, but my brain involuntarily went into overdrive and all I could think about was the excitement of the day to come and could not fall back to sleep.
Eventually, I got up around 3:30am and slowly began my meticulous preparations. Even though I was a bit tired at that early hour, it turned out that the extra time was a good thing, as I casually ate and drank, took several productive trips to the bathroom and drank a little bit of coffee while getting additionally pumped up by the music on my MP3 player (did not carry on the run).
Wayne and I arrived at the trailhead at about 5:20am and Ricky arrived soon after. Ricky unfortunately informed us that he had the flu, seriously considered bailing, but would give it a shot regardless and see how far he got. I was itching to get going, as I could hear the clippety clop of mule hooves descending the trail and could not get an accurate fix on how far down the trail they were, but was sure that our timing would probably be good enough to pass them on one of the wide sections of trail.
Just as we were about to start another very fit looking runner shows up dressed lightly and carrying just a water bottle. We make quick introductions and start down the trail at 5:28am. I took the lead, followed by Wayne, Erin (the new addition to our group) and Ricky. Unfortunately, it was immediately evident that it was not to be Ricky’s day and he fell behind as we continued down the trail.
We were making good progress, yet I was a little worried that we were going a bit slow, as for some reason it felt a bit more leisurely than my previous trip. We caught the mules about 1.5 miles down where there happened to be a wide spot for them to stop and let us pass. They only delayed us by just a couple of minutes, but the delay could not have come at a better time as I was warming up and wanted to remove my windbreaker and was otherwise reluctant to stop. Unlike in 2006, the two mule drivers were quite courteous and accommodating and we profusely reciprocated good sentiment and thanks to them.
Once past the mules, we knew it was clear sailing ahead and I became a bit more relaxed and upped the pace a touch. We then passed Colleen and her two friends running down the trail, they were to meet us for the start but I guess they forgot to get on Arizona time. Further conversation with Erin revealed that he lives in Flagstaff, runs in the Grand Canyon often, had recently run an 8:35 RRR and indicated that we would most likely face great trail conditions. Everything was coming together perfectly, the culmination of 3 years of planning, training, daydreaming…. I had a wide grin on my face all the way down to the Colorado River, one of the best running moments I have ever had, it is truly a magical and inspiring place.
We reached the black bridge in 57 minutes, a bit faster than I had planned, but I never felt as if I were pushing too hard. Erin turned here to head back up to the S. Rim to meet his family and Wayne and I pressed on for Phantom Ranch. This stretch involved some loose sand and a braided network of trails that worked their way through Phantom Ranch and eventually led to the water spigot in front of the Canteen. I think we arrived here after 1:06 and were rolling by 1:08 or so. Once out of sight of camp, I took a quick pee and said my goodbyes to Wayne who wanted to tone it back a bit and run his own pace.
Through the box canyon, I started upping the effort some and I immediately noticed tightness in my calves. Uh oh, I thought, a bit too early for that. The only thing I could relate it to was that perhaps I unwittingly went a touch too fast on the descent, yet it is normally my quads that pay the price.
Throughout the run, I kept echoing Dave’s advice (don’t hammer the downhills, keep up on hydration, food and electrolytes etc….) and was careful to follow his advice (he is the record holder after all at 6:59), drinking often, eating 2+ Endurolytes per hour (along with drinking Heed on occasion) and I was almost always was stuffing a gel or Clif Shot Blok into my mouth.
Not far into Bright Angel Canyon, I began to pass those in our group who began at 2:30am., Bill, Sue, Deb, Beth, Marleen, Dwight, Sharoni, Hoot… One by one, they shouted encouragement as I went by and was a psychological boost to have good friends out there sharing this wonderful day as we cheered one another on.
I made it to Cottonwood Camp in 2:17, gave the water spigot a quick test just out of curiosity and kept on going as I munched on freshly sliced apples, still enjoying the coolness of the shade. I passed Bob just prior to the Roaring Springs residence/water stop and he was moving well. Now the only ones ahead of him were Jill and Jennifer.
At the residence, I waltzed right past the normal faucet as it was hidden behind a tree and found a smaller one on the far side. This worked out fine as I filled my bottles, snuck behind a bush for another quick pee, put on my sunglasses and arranged a few things in my pack. I was here from 2:34-2:37.
Now the first real climbing of the day begins as I climb the hillside and enjoy the first sun hit of the day. By far my favorite stretch of trail, up, up, up toward the North Rim the N. Kaibab trail is etched into the side of what is often times a sheer cliff face with massive exposure on climbers right. I continually focus on getting down food, keeping up on hydration and drank often from each of my two hand bottles, one with Heed and one with water.
Just prior to the big bridge, I pass Jennifer and then quickly stash my 2/3 full hand bottle of water to save weight going up to the N. Rim. In my haste, I set it out in the open sun, yet halfway across the bridge realized that I will appreciate cool water on the return trip, so I went back and stashed it in a spot where I knew it would stay shaded (this turned out to be a much appreciated decision on the way down).
The trail above was a bit rougher than I remember, there seemed to be a lot of freshly fallen rocks of various sizes. Nothing to really slow progress, though I was often times on guard for the possibility of falling rock. The Supai tunnel arrived surprisingly quick and I started debating with myself whether it was 1 mile to the rim, or 3?
Soon after, I caught Jill and she told me it was 2 miles from the tunnel to the rim. I am still not sure, but if it is 2, it was a looong 2 miles. I knew this stretch was longer than one thinks and to not be fooled, but I was still fooled. Snow was minimal, I counted 10 steps of walking on well packed snow spread out between 3 separate lingering drifts. I was pushing a bit to make the N. Rim in less than 4 hours, but arrived there at 4:03 which I was still happy with.
OK, now I just have to get back. It is roughly 1,000 less feet of climbing on the return trip, but I knew accumulated fatigue and cramping would seriously impede my chances of getting back as fast or faster, but I was going to give it my all. Immediately upon starting the descent, my legs were feeling a bit shaky, not really from pushing too hard, as I never feel as though I pushed at or above threshold, just an escalation of that surprise cramping I had been dealing with since Phantom Ranch. I guess there is nothing easy about running across the Grand Canyon and back, so some leg discomfort should be no surprise.
I descended as quickly as I could without overdoing it, all the while being careful not to trip on anything and take a header off one of the exposed cliffs. Though I felt as though I was losing large chunks of time, I arrived back to the Roaring Springs residence in 5:01 for a 58 minutes descent from the rim. Though it felt as though I was dogging it, I was still 2 minutes faster than 2006 where I felt like I was pushing hard and going fast. I treated myself to a 6 minute stop here, though none of it was a rest of any sorts, just enough time to coax out a reluctant pee, fill bottles, add Heed, reapply sunscreen, clean glasses, shuffle food and I was off.
At this point, I was well ahead of my 2006 splits and I wanted to keep it that way, so I kept pushing, no walking, no stops, no losing focus. The upper part of the valley went reasonably quick, but as expected, once into the 4 mile section of the box canyon, it really became endless and I was just eager to begin the final climb to the S. Rim. The numerous rock water bars, that went largely unnoticed on the way up, now seemed like Olympic hurdles. After what seemed like an eternity, I arrived at Phantom Ranch after 6:30, took two minutes to fill/drink and was on my way.
Passing through the ranch, past the campground and beach along the river, there were people lounging around, relaxing in the shade. At the time it looked so appealing and I was tempted to join in the relaxation, but knowing myself, if I were there relaxing, I would be just dying to run uphill. Skipping that step, I re-crossed the black bridge and began the final climb after 6:40. That gave me 2:20 to climb out to meet or exceed my goal of breaking 9 hours, not much leeway considering how my legs were feeling, but I was sure I could do it. I just could not stop and rest, nor could I slack off at all.
Initially on the climb, I had a little pep left in my legs and I made good time to the bathroom on the edge of the Tonto Plateau, arriving there at 7:15 total and only :35 from the bridge. If I could only maintain that, perhaps I could get close to 8? Wishful thinking perhaps. As I continued on, I slowly deteriorated from a quick walking pace with occasional bursts of running, to a hunched over lope with a hand on each knee, to aid my now glacial uphill progress.
Soon I encountered the expected hordes of tourists. I felt pitiful as I struggled past, huffing and puffing, grabbing nearby boulders and rock walls for balance and support while cutting every apex with surgical accuracy. Like 2006, my pace continued to slow and my watch seemed to accelerate at a disproportionate rate. All I could think about was tagging that sign on the rim, I could now see it, but it was still distant. The final set of switchbacks jump steeply up the towering cliff face and it seemed almost insurmountable. I just kept my eyes focused down at the trail immediately at my feet and dig in for all I am worth (which is not much at this point). Finally I tag the top and stop my watch at 8:43:35 and slump in the shade, panting in a heap. That was all I had and could have given no more.
Not wanting to wait any longer than I had to, I quickly gathered my wits and hobbled the few hundred feet over to the bus stop. Surprisingly, I felt pretty good compared to the last time I was in this position. Although my legs immediately ceased up when I stopped, I had immediate appetite and wanted to drink, which I took as a good sign.
Wayne came in at 10:38, knocking an impressive 2 hours off his previous best and well under his sub 12:00 goal. Ricky ended up completing the RRR and finished in around 11:30, which is pretty darn good while being sick. I’m sure he would have smoked me had he been at his normal capacity. Everyone else trickled in throughout the evening, most people had set new PRs for themselves and everyone without fail had an awesome time and seemed eager to return.
I spent the remainder of the afternoon showering, eating, hydrating, stretching and relaxing. Aside from sore legs, I was surprisingly not really that tired. As I write this roughly 48 hours after finishing, my legs are still extremely sore as I can hardly walk without hanging onto walls, handrails etc…., yet it is all just muscle pain that hurts so good and I am very happy to not have sore knees, hips or anything of the like.
I want to thank Bob again for organizing this trip and letting me tag along, it was great to get to hang out with good friends old and new.
Lessons learned/advantages over previous trip:
Better weather…. A day in the mid seventies makes all the difference in the world over a 95 degree day. Luck of course plays a role here, unless you have a lot of flexibility to go there and wait it out for just the right day.
Ahhhh that little run 3 years ago. I confidently thought I could go down and put in a sub 10 hour time on my first try (despite it being my longest run ever by 15 miles), yet 95 degree heat and overall inexperience at running long distances thwarted my efforts and I ran a somewhat disappointing 10:23:42. I was severely dehydrated and was in borderline need of an IV and some general TLC by the time I finished. Despite the suffering, this ranked at the top of the list of all time cool things I have done, certainly my most epic run ever. The trail is phenomenal and generally in great shape for running, the scenery is out of this world and nothing motivates me more than a run as epic as this.
After I recovered a bit, I vowed that I would return soon, hope for a cooler day and employ all the lessons that I learned on my previous trip and gather all the knowledge I could from some of my experienced ultra running friends (Jason Halladay, Bill Geist, Dave Mackey, Tim Long amongst others). That day would not come until this past Saturday, April 18th, 2009.
It unfortunately took me 3 years to get back to the Grand Canyon for a slew of reasons and almost did not make it there this year due to an IT band injury in Feb/March which prevented me from running hard and eliminated any downhill running for quite some time. About two weeks prior to the trip, I decided that despite not putting in much quality downhill running, I felt as though I was reasonably fit and I had no lingering problems with my IT band or any other joints or ligaments for that matter, so why not give it a go?
At nearly the last minute, I got on board with Bob Dawson’s group, his 7th annual trip to the Grand Canyon for the Rim to Rim to Rim where I was to be part of a loose knit group of 20+ people, many with different goals, but all with the same primary objective. We all met for dinner the previous evening where plans got discussed and we all formed sub-groups based on desired route and predicted time. I was planning on meeting Gerry’s friend Ricky Denesik at the S. Kaibab TH a bit before 5:30am to run with him. I had met Ricky briefly back in February on a short hike with the Roach’s and was eager to run with him, as he is a great guy who happens to be the former 14er record holder, Hardrock 100 winner and was 3rd at Hardrock in 2008, so I knew he would be a strong running partner (if I could keep up). When speaking with him on the phone however, he indicated that he was getting sick, so I was not sure what to expect.
That evening, Wayne Herrick, a good friend who was also along on the trip indicated that he wanted to start with us and keep pace at least to Phantom Ranch, so I was stoked to have Wayne along for additional company.
After falling asleep at 8pm on Friday evening, wake up time came a bit early on Saturday morning as Hoot and Dwight, who I was sharing a room with, were up at 1:45am. They were very quiet and efficient, but my brain involuntarily went into overdrive and all I could think about was the excitement of the day to come and could not fall back to sleep.
Eventually, I got up around 3:30am and slowly began my meticulous preparations. Even though I was a bit tired at that early hour, it turned out that the extra time was a good thing, as I casually ate and drank, took several productive trips to the bathroom and drank a little bit of coffee while getting additionally pumped up by the music on my MP3 player (did not carry on the run).
Wayne and I arrived at the trailhead at about 5:20am and Ricky arrived soon after. Ricky unfortunately informed us that he had the flu, seriously considered bailing, but would give it a shot regardless and see how far he got. I was itching to get going, as I could hear the clippety clop of mule hooves descending the trail and could not get an accurate fix on how far down the trail they were, but was sure that our timing would probably be good enough to pass them on one of the wide sections of trail.
Just as we were about to start another very fit looking runner shows up dressed lightly and carrying just a water bottle. We make quick introductions and start down the trail at 5:28am. I took the lead, followed by Wayne, Erin (the new addition to our group) and Ricky. Unfortunately, it was immediately evident that it was not to be Ricky’s day and he fell behind as we continued down the trail.
We were making good progress, yet I was a little worried that we were going a bit slow, as for some reason it felt a bit more leisurely than my previous trip. We caught the mules about 1.5 miles down where there happened to be a wide spot for them to stop and let us pass. They only delayed us by just a couple of minutes, but the delay could not have come at a better time as I was warming up and wanted to remove my windbreaker and was otherwise reluctant to stop. Unlike in 2006, the two mule drivers were quite courteous and accommodating and we profusely reciprocated good sentiment and thanks to them.
Once past the mules, we knew it was clear sailing ahead and I became a bit more relaxed and upped the pace a touch. We then passed Colleen and her two friends running down the trail, they were to meet us for the start but I guess they forgot to get on Arizona time. Further conversation with Erin revealed that he lives in Flagstaff, runs in the Grand Canyon often, had recently run an 8:35 RRR and indicated that we would most likely face great trail conditions. Everything was coming together perfectly, the culmination of 3 years of planning, training, daydreaming…. I had a wide grin on my face all the way down to the Colorado River, one of the best running moments I have ever had, it is truly a magical and inspiring place.
We reached the black bridge in 57 minutes, a bit faster than I had planned, but I never felt as if I were pushing too hard. Erin turned here to head back up to the S. Rim to meet his family and Wayne and I pressed on for Phantom Ranch. This stretch involved some loose sand and a braided network of trails that worked their way through Phantom Ranch and eventually led to the water spigot in front of the Canteen. I think we arrived here after 1:06 and were rolling by 1:08 or so. Once out of sight of camp, I took a quick pee and said my goodbyes to Wayne who wanted to tone it back a bit and run his own pace.
Through the box canyon, I started upping the effort some and I immediately noticed tightness in my calves. Uh oh, I thought, a bit too early for that. The only thing I could relate it to was that perhaps I unwittingly went a touch too fast on the descent, yet it is normally my quads that pay the price.
Throughout the run, I kept echoing Dave’s advice (don’t hammer the downhills, keep up on hydration, food and electrolytes etc….) and was careful to follow his advice (he is the record holder after all at 6:59), drinking often, eating 2+ Endurolytes per hour (along with drinking Heed on occasion) and I was almost always was stuffing a gel or Clif Shot Blok into my mouth.
Not far into Bright Angel Canyon, I began to pass those in our group who began at 2:30am., Bill, Sue, Deb, Beth, Marleen, Dwight, Sharoni, Hoot… One by one, they shouted encouragement as I went by and was a psychological boost to have good friends out there sharing this wonderful day as we cheered one another on.
I made it to Cottonwood Camp in 2:17, gave the water spigot a quick test just out of curiosity and kept on going as I munched on freshly sliced apples, still enjoying the coolness of the shade. I passed Bob just prior to the Roaring Springs residence/water stop and he was moving well. Now the only ones ahead of him were Jill and Jennifer.
At the residence, I waltzed right past the normal faucet as it was hidden behind a tree and found a smaller one on the far side. This worked out fine as I filled my bottles, snuck behind a bush for another quick pee, put on my sunglasses and arranged a few things in my pack. I was here from 2:34-2:37.
Now the first real climbing of the day begins as I climb the hillside and enjoy the first sun hit of the day. By far my favorite stretch of trail, up, up, up toward the North Rim the N. Kaibab trail is etched into the side of what is often times a sheer cliff face with massive exposure on climbers right. I continually focus on getting down food, keeping up on hydration and drank often from each of my two hand bottles, one with Heed and one with water.
Just prior to the big bridge, I pass Jennifer and then quickly stash my 2/3 full hand bottle of water to save weight going up to the N. Rim. In my haste, I set it out in the open sun, yet halfway across the bridge realized that I will appreciate cool water on the return trip, so I went back and stashed it in a spot where I knew it would stay shaded (this turned out to be a much appreciated decision on the way down).
The trail above was a bit rougher than I remember, there seemed to be a lot of freshly fallen rocks of various sizes. Nothing to really slow progress, though I was often times on guard for the possibility of falling rock. The Supai tunnel arrived surprisingly quick and I started debating with myself whether it was 1 mile to the rim, or 3?
Soon after, I caught Jill and she told me it was 2 miles from the tunnel to the rim. I am still not sure, but if it is 2, it was a looong 2 miles. I knew this stretch was longer than one thinks and to not be fooled, but I was still fooled. Snow was minimal, I counted 10 steps of walking on well packed snow spread out between 3 separate lingering drifts. I was pushing a bit to make the N. Rim in less than 4 hours, but arrived there at 4:03 which I was still happy with.
OK, now I just have to get back. It is roughly 1,000 less feet of climbing on the return trip, but I knew accumulated fatigue and cramping would seriously impede my chances of getting back as fast or faster, but I was going to give it my all. Immediately upon starting the descent, my legs were feeling a bit shaky, not really from pushing too hard, as I never feel as though I pushed at or above threshold, just an escalation of that surprise cramping I had been dealing with since Phantom Ranch. I guess there is nothing easy about running across the Grand Canyon and back, so some leg discomfort should be no surprise.
I descended as quickly as I could without overdoing it, all the while being careful not to trip on anything and take a header off one of the exposed cliffs. Though I felt as though I was losing large chunks of time, I arrived back to the Roaring Springs residence in 5:01 for a 58 minutes descent from the rim. Though it felt as though I was dogging it, I was still 2 minutes faster than 2006 where I felt like I was pushing hard and going fast. I treated myself to a 6 minute stop here, though none of it was a rest of any sorts, just enough time to coax out a reluctant pee, fill bottles, add Heed, reapply sunscreen, clean glasses, shuffle food and I was off.
At this point, I was well ahead of my 2006 splits and I wanted to keep it that way, so I kept pushing, no walking, no stops, no losing focus. The upper part of the valley went reasonably quick, but as expected, once into the 4 mile section of the box canyon, it really became endless and I was just eager to begin the final climb to the S. Rim. The numerous rock water bars, that went largely unnoticed on the way up, now seemed like Olympic hurdles. After what seemed like an eternity, I arrived at Phantom Ranch after 6:30, took two minutes to fill/drink and was on my way.
Passing through the ranch, past the campground and beach along the river, there were people lounging around, relaxing in the shade. At the time it looked so appealing and I was tempted to join in the relaxation, but knowing myself, if I were there relaxing, I would be just dying to run uphill. Skipping that step, I re-crossed the black bridge and began the final climb after 6:40. That gave me 2:20 to climb out to meet or exceed my goal of breaking 9 hours, not much leeway considering how my legs were feeling, but I was sure I could do it. I just could not stop and rest, nor could I slack off at all.
Initially on the climb, I had a little pep left in my legs and I made good time to the bathroom on the edge of the Tonto Plateau, arriving there at 7:15 total and only :35 from the bridge. If I could only maintain that, perhaps I could get close to 8? Wishful thinking perhaps. As I continued on, I slowly deteriorated from a quick walking pace with occasional bursts of running, to a hunched over lope with a hand on each knee, to aid my now glacial uphill progress.
Soon I encountered the expected hordes of tourists. I felt pitiful as I struggled past, huffing and puffing, grabbing nearby boulders and rock walls for balance and support while cutting every apex with surgical accuracy. Like 2006, my pace continued to slow and my watch seemed to accelerate at a disproportionate rate. All I could think about was tagging that sign on the rim, I could now see it, but it was still distant. The final set of switchbacks jump steeply up the towering cliff face and it seemed almost insurmountable. I just kept my eyes focused down at the trail immediately at my feet and dig in for all I am worth (which is not much at this point). Finally I tag the top and stop my watch at 8:43:35 and slump in the shade, panting in a heap. That was all I had and could have given no more.
Not wanting to wait any longer than I had to, I quickly gathered my wits and hobbled the few hundred feet over to the bus stop. Surprisingly, I felt pretty good compared to the last time I was in this position. Although my legs immediately ceased up when I stopped, I had immediate appetite and wanted to drink, which I took as a good sign.
Wayne came in at 10:38, knocking an impressive 2 hours off his previous best and well under his sub 12:00 goal. Ricky ended up completing the RRR and finished in around 11:30, which is pretty darn good while being sick. I’m sure he would have smoked me had he been at his normal capacity. Everyone else trickled in throughout the evening, most people had set new PRs for themselves and everyone without fail had an awesome time and seemed eager to return.
I spent the remainder of the afternoon showering, eating, hydrating, stretching and relaxing. Aside from sore legs, I was surprisingly not really that tired. As I write this roughly 48 hours after finishing, my legs are still extremely sore as I can hardly walk without hanging onto walls, handrails etc…., yet it is all just muscle pain that hurts so good and I am very happy to not have sore knees, hips or anything of the like.
I want to thank Bob again for organizing this trip and letting me tag along, it was great to get to hang out with good friends old and new.
Lessons learned/advantages over previous trip:
Better weather…. A day in the mid seventies makes all the difference in the world over a 95 degree day. Luck of course plays a role here, unless you have a lot of flexibility to go there and wait it out for just the right day.
Consistent hydration, eating and electrolyte consumption. Making a conscious and constant effort to consume (this however was aided tremendously by cooler temps). I set my watch’s repeat timer function to beep at me at regular intervals. Even though I only heard it half the time and never really did anything when it chimed, just having set it beforehand helped keep me thinking of it often.
Familiarity with the trail, helped a lot mentally.
Mules, pure luck.
Not carrying too much gear. This year I carried much less food. I still had a bit more than I ate, but my pack was much lighter, just 4lbs/6oz fully loaded.
Wore proven shoes that did not give me blisters (at least none that I had to stop and tend to thus wasting time).
Cut down on breaks/stops. 13 minutes this year vs. 1:05 last year.
Things I might do differently next time:
Train more for the downhills. Although I knew this and it was beyond my control this year, I am sure that lacking this specific training set me up to lose some time.
Things I might do differently next time:
Train more for the downhills. Although I knew this and it was beyond my control this year, I am sure that lacking this specific training set me up to lose some time.
Wear lighter shoes that ride a little lower to the ground, yet have good protection.
Carry even less food, I really only ate gels, Clif Shot Bloks, Apples, E-tabs and advil. I tried to eat some Cheeto/Dorito mix and some trail mix, but I really could not get it down the hatch.
Gear used:
Running shorts with pockets- good for stashing small items and keeping organized/easy access.
White running t-shirt.
White running hat.
Sunglasses.
Smartwool ankle height, mid weight socks.
Pearlizumi Seek III shoes
2 hand bottles
1 Nathan HPL-020 hydration vest (left the bladder behind and just used bottles).
Go-Lite wind shirt (could have left this behind).
Arm warmers (these were great, as I could dial them up/down as necessary until I finally took them off when it really warmed up).
Glove liners.
Small bit of sunscreen and chapstick.
Duct tape just in case.
Food:
9 servings of gel (ate 6)
3 bags of Shot Bloks (ate 13/18 bloks)
2 sliced apples (ate 1-1.5)
1 ziplock bag of Cheeto/Dorito mix (ate a mouthful)
1 ziplock bag of trail mix (ate a mouthful)
6 advil tablets (ate all of them)
18 e-tabs (ate them all)
4 servings of Heed (drank 2)
1 serving of Perpetuem (forgot about it or opted not to drink it?).
7 x 20oz bottles of water (one S. Rim to river, one Phantom to Roaring, 2 to N. Rim and back, 1 down to Phantom, 2 up to S. Rim). I also took several good gulps at each filling.
Breakfast:
Banana
1 serving of Perpetuem
Yogurt/Granola/Strawberries
1 cup coffee
Splits:
Start- 0 (5:28am)
Black Bridge- :57
Canteen- ~1:06-~1:08
Cottonwood- 2:17
Roaring- 2:34-2:37
N. Rim- 4:03
Roaring- 5:01-5:07
Cottonwood- 5:19
Phantom- 6:30-6:32
Black Bridge- 6:40
Finish- 8:43:35 (2:11pm)
Gear used:
Running shorts with pockets- good for stashing small items and keeping organized/easy access.
White running t-shirt.
White running hat.
Sunglasses.
Smartwool ankle height, mid weight socks.
Pearlizumi Seek III shoes
2 hand bottles
1 Nathan HPL-020 hydration vest (left the bladder behind and just used bottles).
Go-Lite wind shirt (could have left this behind).
Arm warmers (these were great, as I could dial them up/down as necessary until I finally took them off when it really warmed up).
Glove liners.
Small bit of sunscreen and chapstick.
Duct tape just in case.
Food:
9 servings of gel (ate 6)
3 bags of Shot Bloks (ate 13/18 bloks)
2 sliced apples (ate 1-1.5)
1 ziplock bag of Cheeto/Dorito mix (ate a mouthful)
1 ziplock bag of trail mix (ate a mouthful)
6 advil tablets (ate all of them)
18 e-tabs (ate them all)
4 servings of Heed (drank 2)
1 serving of Perpetuem (forgot about it or opted not to drink it?).
7 x 20oz bottles of water (one S. Rim to river, one Phantom to Roaring, 2 to N. Rim and back, 1 down to Phantom, 2 up to S. Rim). I also took several good gulps at each filling.
Breakfast:
Banana
1 serving of Perpetuem
Yogurt/Granola/Strawberries
1 cup coffee
Splits:
Start- 0 (5:28am)
Black Bridge- :57
Canteen- ~1:06-~1:08
Cottonwood- 2:17
Roaring- 2:34-2:37
N. Rim- 4:03
Roaring- 5:01-5:07
Cottonwood- 5:19
Phantom- 6:30-6:32
Black Bridge- 6:40
Finish- 8:43:35 (2:11pm)
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