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Monday, April 20, 2009

Grand Canyon Rim to Rim to Rim, 04/18/09


Grand Canyon Rim to Rim to Rim
S. Rim to the N. Rim and back via the South and North Kaibab trails.
~43 miles
~11,000 vertical feet
4/18/09








As I struggle back up the S. Kaibab Trail, hands on my knees, head down, I keep the bill of my hat positioned so I can only see 20-30 feet ahead maximum. I don’t dare look up and see how far I have to go, I only want to focus on immediately finding the most efficient line over or alongside the now seemingly insurmountable and infinite steps. Occasionally I glance down toward the river to mark my progress and check my watch. Although my legs are cramping and I am nearly out of water, the temperature is very reasonable compared to my last attempt at the RRR nearly 3 years ago. I am in pain, but nothing compared to before and I can taste the finish.

Ahhhh that little run 3 years ago. I confidently thought I could go down and put in a sub 10 hour time on my first try (despite it being my longest run ever by 15 miles), yet 95 degree heat and overall inexperience at running long distances thwarted my efforts and I ran a somewhat disappointing 10:23:42. I was severely dehydrated and was in borderline need of an IV and some general TLC by the time I finished. Despite the suffering, this ranked at the top of the list of all time cool things I have done, certainly my most epic run ever. The trail is phenomenal and generally in great shape for running, the scenery is out of this world and nothing motivates me more than a run as epic as this.

After I recovered a bit, I vowed that I would return soon, hope for a cooler day and employ all the lessons that I learned on my previous trip and gather all the knowledge I could from some of my experienced ultra running friends (Jason Halladay, Bill Geist, Dave Mackey, Tim Long amongst others). That day would not come until this past Saturday, April 18th, 2009.

It unfortunately took me 3 years to get back to the Grand Canyon for a slew of reasons and almost did not make it there this year due to an IT band injury in Feb/March which prevented me from running hard and eliminated any downhill running for quite some time. About two weeks prior to the trip, I decided that despite not putting in much quality downhill running, I felt as though I was reasonably fit and I had no lingering problems with my IT band or any other joints or ligaments for that matter, so why not give it a go?

At nearly the last minute, I got on board with Bob Dawson’s group, his 7th annual trip to the Grand Canyon for the Rim to Rim to Rim where I was to be part of a loose knit group of 20+ people, many with different goals, but all with the same primary objective. We all met for dinner the previous evening where plans got discussed and we all formed sub-groups based on desired route and predicted time. I was planning on meeting Gerry’s friend Ricky Denesik at the S. Kaibab TH a bit before 5:30am to run with him. I had met Ricky briefly back in February on a short hike with the Roach’s and was eager to run with him, as he is a great guy who happens to be the former 14er record holder, Hardrock 100 winner and was 3rd at Hardrock in 2008, so I knew he would be a strong running partner (if I could keep up). When speaking with him on the phone however, he indicated that he was getting sick, so I was not sure what to expect.

That evening, Wayne Herrick, a good friend who was also along on the trip indicated that he wanted to start with us and keep pace at least to Phantom Ranch, so I was stoked to have Wayne along for additional company.

After falling asleep at 8pm on Friday evening, wake up time came a bit early on Saturday morning as Hoot and Dwight, who I was sharing a room with, were up at 1:45am. They were very quiet and efficient, but my brain involuntarily went into overdrive and all I could think about was the excitement of the day to come and could not fall back to sleep.

Eventually, I got up around 3:30am and slowly began my meticulous preparations. Even though I was a bit tired at that early hour, it turned out that the extra time was a good thing, as I casually ate and drank, took several productive trips to the bathroom and drank a little bit of coffee while getting additionally pumped up by the music on my MP3 player (did not carry on the run).

Wayne and I arrived at the trailhead at about 5:20am and Ricky arrived soon after. Ricky unfortunately informed us that he had the flu, seriously considered bailing, but would give it a shot regardless and see how far he got. I was itching to get going, as I could hear the clippety clop of mule hooves descending the trail and could not get an accurate fix on how far down the trail they were, but was sure that our timing would probably be good enough to pass them on one of the wide sections of trail.

Just as we were about to start another very fit looking runner shows up dressed lightly and carrying just a water bottle. We make quick introductions and start down the trail at 5:28am. I took the lead, followed by Wayne, Erin (the new addition to our group) and Ricky. Unfortunately, it was immediately evident that it was not to be Ricky’s day and he fell behind as we continued down the trail.

We were making good progress, yet I was a little worried that we were going a bit slow, as for some reason it felt a bit more leisurely than my previous trip. We caught the mules about 1.5 miles down where there happened to be a wide spot for them to stop and let us pass. They only delayed us by just a couple of minutes, but the delay could not have come at a better time as I was warming up and wanted to remove my windbreaker and was otherwise reluctant to stop. Unlike in 2006, the two mule drivers were quite courteous and accommodating and we profusely reciprocated good sentiment and thanks to them.

Once past the mules, we knew it was clear sailing ahead and I became a bit more relaxed and upped the pace a touch. We then passed Colleen and her two friends running down the trail, they were to meet us for the start but I guess they forgot to get on Arizona time. Further conversation with Erin revealed that he lives in Flagstaff, runs in the Grand Canyon often, had recently run an 8:35 RRR and indicated that we would most likely face great trail conditions. Everything was coming together perfectly, the culmination of 3 years of planning, training, daydreaming…. I had a wide grin on my face all the way down to the Colorado River, one of the best running moments I have ever had, it is truly a magical and inspiring place.

We reached the black bridge in 57 minutes, a bit faster than I had planned, but I never felt as if I were pushing too hard. Erin turned here to head back up to the S. Rim to meet his family and Wayne and I pressed on for Phantom Ranch. This stretch involved some loose sand and a braided network of trails that worked their way through Phantom Ranch and eventually led to the water spigot in front of the Canteen. I think we arrived here after 1:06 and were rolling by 1:08 or so. Once out of sight of camp, I took a quick pee and said my goodbyes to Wayne who wanted to tone it back a bit and run his own pace.

Through the box canyon, I started upping the effort some and I immediately noticed tightness in my calves. Uh oh, I thought, a bit too early for that. The only thing I could relate it to was that perhaps I unwittingly went a touch too fast on the descent, yet it is normally my quads that pay the price.

Throughout the run, I kept echoing Dave’s advice (don’t hammer the downhills, keep up on hydration, food and electrolytes etc….) and was careful to follow his advice (he is the record holder after all at 6:59), drinking often, eating 2+ Endurolytes per hour (along with drinking Heed on occasion) and I was almost always was stuffing a gel or Clif Shot Blok into my mouth.

Not far into Bright Angel Canyon, I began to pass those in our group who began at 2:30am., Bill, Sue, Deb, Beth, Marleen, Dwight, Sharoni, Hoot… One by one, they shouted encouragement as I went by and was a psychological boost to have good friends out there sharing this wonderful day as we cheered one another on.

I made it to Cottonwood Camp in 2:17, gave the water spigot a quick test just out of curiosity and kept on going as I munched on freshly sliced apples, still enjoying the coolness of the shade. I passed Bob just prior to the Roaring Springs residence/water stop and he was moving well. Now the only ones ahead of him were Jill and Jennifer.

At the residence, I waltzed right past the normal faucet as it was hidden behind a tree and found a smaller one on the far side. This worked out fine as I filled my bottles, snuck behind a bush for another quick pee, put on my sunglasses and arranged a few things in my pack. I was here from 2:34-2:37.

Now the first real climbing of the day begins as I climb the hillside and enjoy the first sun hit of the day. By far my favorite stretch of trail, up, up, up toward the North Rim the N. Kaibab trail is etched into the side of what is often times a sheer cliff face with massive exposure on climbers right. I continually focus on getting down food, keeping up on hydration and drank often from each of my two hand bottles, one with Heed and one with water.

Just prior to the big bridge, I pass Jennifer and then quickly stash my 2/3 full hand bottle of water to save weight going up to the N. Rim. In my haste, I set it out in the open sun, yet halfway across the bridge realized that I will appreciate cool water on the return trip, so I went back and stashed it in a spot where I knew it would stay shaded (this turned out to be a much appreciated decision on the way down).

The trail above was a bit rougher than I remember, there seemed to be a lot of freshly fallen rocks of various sizes. Nothing to really slow progress, though I was often times on guard for the possibility of falling rock. The Supai tunnel arrived surprisingly quick and I started debating with myself whether it was 1 mile to the rim, or 3?

Soon after, I caught Jill and she told me it was 2 miles from the tunnel to the rim. I am still not sure, but if it is 2, it was a looong 2 miles. I knew this stretch was longer than one thinks and to not be fooled, but I was still fooled. Snow was minimal, I counted 10 steps of walking on well packed snow spread out between 3 separate lingering drifts. I was pushing a bit to make the N. Rim in less than 4 hours, but arrived there at 4:03 which I was still happy with.

OK, now I just have to get back. It is roughly 1,000 less feet of climbing on the return trip, but I knew accumulated fatigue and cramping would seriously impede my chances of getting back as fast or faster, but I was going to give it my all. Immediately upon starting the descent, my legs were feeling a bit shaky, not really from pushing too hard, as I never feel as though I pushed at or above threshold, just an escalation of that surprise cramping I had been dealing with since Phantom Ranch. I guess there is nothing easy about running across the Grand Canyon and back, so some leg discomfort should be no surprise.

I descended as quickly as I could without overdoing it, all the while being careful not to trip on anything and take a header off one of the exposed cliffs. Though I felt as though I was losing large chunks of time, I arrived back to the Roaring Springs residence in 5:01 for a 58 minutes descent from the rim. Though it felt as though I was dogging it, I was still 2 minutes faster than 2006 where I felt like I was pushing hard and going fast. I treated myself to a 6 minute stop here, though none of it was a rest of any sorts, just enough time to coax out a reluctant pee, fill bottles, add Heed, reapply sunscreen, clean glasses, shuffle food and I was off.

At this point, I was well ahead of my 2006 splits and I wanted to keep it that way, so I kept pushing, no walking, no stops, no losing focus. The upper part of the valley went reasonably quick, but as expected, once into the 4 mile section of the box canyon, it really became endless and I was just eager to begin the final climb to the S. Rim. The numerous rock water bars, that went largely unnoticed on the way up, now seemed like Olympic hurdles. After what seemed like an eternity, I arrived at Phantom Ranch after 6:30, took two minutes to fill/drink and was on my way.

Passing through the ranch, past the campground and beach along the river, there were people lounging around, relaxing in the shade. At the time it looked so appealing and I was tempted to join in the relaxation, but knowing myself, if I were there relaxing, I would be just dying to run uphill. Skipping that step, I re-crossed the black bridge and began the final climb after 6:40. That gave me 2:20 to climb out to meet or exceed my goal of breaking 9 hours, not much leeway considering how my legs were feeling, but I was sure I could do it. I just could not stop and rest, nor could I slack off at all.

Initially on the climb, I had a little pep left in my legs and I made good time to the bathroom on the edge of the Tonto Plateau, arriving there at 7:15 total and only :35 from the bridge. If I could only maintain that, perhaps I could get close to 8? Wishful thinking perhaps. As I continued on, I slowly deteriorated from a quick walking pace with occasional bursts of running, to a hunched over lope with a hand on each knee, to aid my now glacial uphill progress.

Soon I encountered the expected hordes of tourists. I felt pitiful as I struggled past, huffing and puffing, grabbing nearby boulders and rock walls for balance and support while cutting every apex with surgical accuracy. Like 2006, my pace continued to slow and my watch seemed to accelerate at a disproportionate rate. All I could think about was tagging that sign on the rim, I could now see it, but it was still distant. The final set of switchbacks jump steeply up the towering cliff face and it seemed almost insurmountable. I just kept my eyes focused down at the trail immediately at my feet and dig in for all I am worth (which is not much at this point). Finally I tag the top and stop my watch at 8:43:35 and slump in the shade, panting in a heap. That was all I had and could have given no more.

Not wanting to wait any longer than I had to, I quickly gathered my wits and hobbled the few hundred feet over to the bus stop. Surprisingly, I felt pretty good compared to the last time I was in this position. Although my legs immediately ceased up when I stopped, I had immediate appetite and wanted to drink, which I took as a good sign.

Wayne came in at 10:38, knocking an impressive 2 hours off his previous best and well under his sub 12:00 goal. Ricky ended up completing the RRR and finished in around 11:30, which is pretty darn good while being sick. I’m sure he would have smoked me had he been at his normal capacity. Everyone else trickled in throughout the evening, most people had set new PRs for themselves and everyone without fail had an awesome time and seemed eager to return.

I spent the remainder of the afternoon showering, eating, hydrating, stretching and relaxing. Aside from sore legs, I was surprisingly not really that tired. As I write this roughly 48 hours after finishing, my legs are still extremely sore as I can hardly walk without hanging onto walls, handrails etc…., yet it is all just muscle pain that hurts so good and I am very happy to not have sore knees, hips or anything of the like.

I want to thank Bob again for organizing this trip and letting me tag along, it was great to get to hang out with good friends old and new.

Lessons learned/advantages over previous trip:

Better weather…. A day in the mid seventies makes all the difference in the world over a 95 degree day. Luck of course plays a role here, unless you have a lot of flexibility to go there and wait it out for just the right day.
Consistent hydration, eating and electrolyte consumption. Making a conscious and constant effort to consume (this however was aided tremendously by cooler temps). I set my watch’s repeat timer function to beep at me at regular intervals. Even though I only heard it half the time and never really did anything when it chimed, just having set it beforehand helped keep me thinking of it often.
Familiarity with the trail, helped a lot mentally.
Mules, pure luck.
Not carrying too much gear. This year I carried much less food. I still had a bit more than I ate, but my pack was much lighter, just 4lbs/6oz fully loaded.
Wore proven shoes that did not give me blisters (at least none that I had to stop and tend to thus wasting time).
Cut down on breaks/stops. 13 minutes this year vs. 1:05 last year.

Things I might do differently next time:

Train more for the downhills. Although I knew this and it was beyond my control this year, I am sure that lacking this specific training set me up to lose some time.
Wear lighter shoes that ride a little lower to the ground, yet have good protection.
Carry even less food, I really only ate gels, Clif Shot Bloks, Apples, E-tabs and advil. I tried to eat some Cheeto/Dorito mix and some trail mix, but I really could not get it down the hatch.

Gear used:

Running shorts with pockets- good for stashing small items and keeping organized/easy access.
White running t-shirt.
White running hat.
Sunglasses.
Smartwool ankle height, mid weight socks.
Pearlizumi Seek III shoes
2 hand bottles
1 Nathan HPL-020 hydration vest (left the bladder behind and just used bottles).
Go-Lite wind shirt (could have left this behind).
Arm warmers (these were great, as I could dial them up/down as necessary until I finally took them off when it really warmed up).
Glove liners.
Small bit of sunscreen and chapstick.
Duct tape just in case.

Food:

9 servings of gel (ate 6)
3 bags of Shot Bloks (ate 13/18 bloks)
2 sliced apples (ate 1-1.5)
1 ziplock bag of Cheeto/Dorito mix (ate a mouthful)
1 ziplock bag of trail mix (ate a mouthful)
6 advil tablets (ate all of them)
18 e-tabs (ate them all)
4 servings of Heed (drank 2)
1 serving of Perpetuem (forgot about it or opted not to drink it?).
7 x 20oz bottles of water (one S. Rim to river, one Phantom to Roaring, 2 to N. Rim and back, 1 down to Phantom, 2 up to S. Rim). I also took several good gulps at each filling.

Breakfast:

Banana
1 serving of Perpetuem
Yogurt/Granola/Strawberries
1 cup coffee

Splits:

Start- 0 (5:28am)
Black Bridge- :57
Canteen- ~1:06-~1:08
Cottonwood- 2:17
Roaring- 2:34-2:37
N. Rim- 4:03
Roaring- 5:01-5:07
Cottonwood- 5:19
Phantom- 6:30-6:32
Black Bridge- 6:40
Finish- 8:43:35 (2:11pm)









Wednesday, April 8, 2009

Wednesday, 4/08/09 Walker from Eldo

I met Tim today in Eldo where the road turns to dirt and we headed into the canyon via the backyard shortcut up to the Fowler Trail, then up the road to the Eldorado Trail. Tim and I took it easy to the Eldo trail, chatting it up, then Tim bumped up the intensity a notch. He kept offering to let me pass, but he was keeping a great pace and since my goal was to go for time instead of intensity, I declined. Tim wanted to keep it short, so once we hit 38 minutes, he turned around and I continued on. I made good time down to the Walker loop and decided to go clockwise, as I figured it would be safer to climb the icy/snowy hikabike section. It was a bit snowy, but nothing too bad. After that, is was mostly dry up to the parking lot on the opposite end. From the lot, it was mostly snowy down to the river, making footing a bit iffy and I went conservative as to not fall or twist anything. It was dry from the river crossing to the main lot, then continued dry for another mile or so until the long switchback descent that is North facing. This section was really slow, as it was very slippery and off camber. Once on the dirt road, it was mainly mud, the heavy mud that piles up on your shoes, so I worked hard to avoid that the best I could. The ascent back up the Eldo trail through the snow was slow and my legs were tired and sore, mainly from pushing in the slush yesterday, so I just powerhiked mainly and jogged when I could. Once I topped out, I made quick work of the rollers and descent back to the car.

Not sure what my splits were, but my time for the Walker loop was an abyssmal 1:19 because of the snow and I was not really pushing at all, just bumping along really. Total car to car 3:01.

Tuesday, April 7, 2009

Tuesday, 4/07/09 S. Boulder and Bear

Allison, Sierra and I headed out for the S. Boulder/Bear combo today. Was an awesome day, but the trails are an absolute mess. Lots of mud to start, then slush and mud, then just slush. There is still 12-18" of snow in the woods up high, so it may be a while until things melt, but at least the trails are somewhat packed. Went somewhat hard and could only muster 1:00 up S. Boulder via the longer Homestead Trail with all the slipping/sliding and carrying a full Nathan vest (also spent some time keeping Sierra on track and getting her leashed for Allison). Turned tail at the summit to head back down to meet Allison and Sierra and found them at the saddle, making good time. Took a long break at the top, then went over to Bear for another long break. 2:51 total.

Thursday, April 2, 2009

Thursday, 4/02/09 Flagstaff Road (SuperFlag)

9 miles
2,000 vertical

Got out with Tim and Brandon today for a little jaunt up SuperFlag. I have been meaning to do this for some time, primarily for pushing a bit on the downhill in order to shock my downhill muscles into shape a bit, just in case I am able to go to the Grand Canyon in 2 weeks, plus the trails are so crappy right now, it almost seemed appealing to run on the road.

Started off at a fairly casual pace, chatting with Tim about various topics. Upped the tempo here and there, but not by much, just really bad pacing really, yet I was not set on any certain pace, just kind of enjoying the day. Picked up the pace a bit in the last mile through the steepest section (not really upping the pace, just upping the effort a bit to get up the hill).

All the wet sand and slush on the road made footing a little slippy toward the top, but nothing like the trails would be now. Made the top in 44:32 and Tim was not far behind. We turned tail, taking it fairly conservative as to not totally kill our legs, or slip on the poor road surface. 7 minutes for the 1st mile, then 5:53 for the second, not sure on the 3rd mile but was going somewhat fast, at least for the first half, then it started to feel as though I was getting a flat tire. Not sure what that was about, as I stopped a few times to examine my right shoe and it looked intact. I guess it was some odd foot sensation that went away when I stopped. 28:47 for the down.

I feel like quite the klunker on the road, but it is a good exercise in pacing, cadence and is an all around great workout.

Wednesday, April 1, 2009

Wednesday, 4/01/09 Sanitas

Allison wanted to shoot for a good time on Sanitas today, so I gave her a 5+ minute head start and wanted to see if I could catch her before the top. I started off fairly easy, just cruising really, then started to up the pace a bit. I felt decent and pushed it after the halfway mark, catching her at the descent to the puddle a few minutes below the top. I made the summit in 18:09, which felt infinitely easier than my 18:24 a week ago, where I felt as though I was going to bust a lung, so I was happy with that although my time is still nothing too inspiring.

March Wrap-Up

Although in my mind, it seems like I have not done too much this past month, my stats indicate otherwise. Most of the month was spent either dealing with or getting over a minor ITB injury that I am confident that I have now put behind me. Many of my outings this month have been fairly casual (with the exception of pushing myself on 2 or 3 occasions) just trying to take it easy on the ITB and not have it flare up again, or worsen. It is good to get this out of the way now and be prudent as to not risk all the fun times ahead.

March Stats:

Miles: 159.5
Vert: 51,900 ft.
Days: 26
14ers: 2 (Pikes and Longs)
Peaks total: 19
Green: 4
Sanitas: 4
Bear: 6
S. Boulder: 3
Plus.... 5 slot canyons, 4 bike rides, 2 desert runs

YTD Stats:

Miles: 453.5
Vert: 146,260
Days: 70
14ers: 11
13ers: 1
12ers: 1
Green: 12
Sanitas: 10
Bear: 16
S. Boulder: 9
Total Peaks: 67

Sunday, March 29, 2009

Sunday, 03/29/09 Bear Peak

After slogging in deep and unconsolidated snow the past 2 days and not having pushed myself very hard more than once or twice in the past few months, I was itching to get in a hard run on Bear Peak, where I had hoped the trail was setting up nicely from the weekend foot traffic and warm/cold temperatures.

Started off at a brisk pace and was sucking wind a bit, but generally feeling good, all things considered. With some slipping and sliding, I topped out from the Cragmoor cutoff in about 3 minutes.

The trip up the Shanahan trail was somewhat better, hard packed snow that was quickly melting in the warm sun. Made the Mesa trail in 10:48, not quite PR pace, but surprisingly close given the conditons.

From Mesa to the Slab, footing was tricky, with 3+ inch deep frozen footprints from the day before to negotiate. Passed the Slab in the high 15’s, not great, but I was still feeling good, so I pressed on at a hard pace.

The trip to the saddle was pretty smooth, footing was good and I mainly power hiked, but ran when I could. Made the saddle in 29:??, then just went into hands on knees hiking mode the remainder of the way. The trail conditions worsened a bit, mainly just a consequence of the steepness which ensured a certain amount of slippage with every toe off. Made the summit post in 45:37, then 30 more seconds to the true summit.

Conditions were really slick back to the saddle, so I took that easy and even so, managed to get out of control a few times, but managed to keep from falling. Went fairly quick the remainder of the run, but the snow was really softening and turning to slippy and unpredictable slush, so did not press too hard as to not have any mishaps.

Finished the run in 1:13:07 and felt pretty good about it all things considered. I have a ways to go to regain the fitness I am looking for, but it is still early in the year and the trails are a mess.

Splits:

10:48 mesa
15:?? slab
29:?? saddle
45:37 summit post
46:07 summit
54:?? saddle
1:13:07 finish a cragmoor

Saturday, 03/28/09 Bear Peak

Headed up Bear again today with Allison and Sierra. The trail was packed much better than the previous day (we at least had faint tracks to follow from the previous day’s wallow fest) and we made good time up to the saddle. From the saddle to the summit, the overnight winds eroded our previous days work and at times the snow drifts were knee to waist deep, but compared to the previous day, it was a cake walk. We made the summit in 1:30, lounged for 15-20 and then took our time heading down, just enjoyed an all around great day, arriving back at the car after 3 hours total.

Took some pictures along the way, which is rare for me, but the new snow made picture taking a must today:

http://s147.photobucket.com/albums/r296/jeffvalliere/2009_03_29_Bear_Blizzard/

Friday, March 27, 2009

Friday, 3/27/09 Bear Peak

Scott, Sierra and I got out for a great snow swim up Bear Peak today from the Cragmoor TH. The trail started off nice and packed to the Mesa Trail, but from there to the Fern Canyon, there was no track, then a ski track for a very short ways up Fern.

Not sure what the official storm total for Boulder was, maybe ~18 inches, but there was certainly more on Bear Peak. When trailbreaking, the snow was never less then knee deep, was waist deep in places where it was steepest and armpit deep at the base of the Slab where all the spindrift collects.

The steep trudge up Fern was a challenge as it was like swimming in spots and you never really knew exactly what you were stepping on. Things became a little easier above the saddle, as Scott's trail from the previous day revealed itself somewhat, but it was still a slog. Made the true summit after 1:54, hung out on top for a while then went down in an hour and a few minutes taking it pretty easy. Never went too hard, although just breaking trail the entire way was a challenge in and of itself.

Sierra had a blast as always, a big smile on her face the entire time and by the end had a nice collection of snowballs firmly embedded to her chest.

We wore Kahtoola crampons, but all they did was ball up, then were a nuisance on the descent, so we took them off. A warm day or two, plus a few more passes on the trail, it should set up pretty nice.

Wednesday, March 25, 2009

Utah Fun

Little Wild Horse Canyon, Bell Canyon, Dang/Ding Canyons, Crack Canyon
March 20-23rd, 2009
Jeff and Allison Valliere, Dave and Emily Hale, Sierra, Shep and Kiefer

We had been planning to head to the desert for over a month. Looking for canyons that were doggy friendly and did not require gear, we settled on the Goblin Valley area, as I had gone there with my Dad and Sierra back in October and knew it would fit the bill.

Saturday morning, 3/21/09, LWH/Bell Canyons

After a peaceful night in our quiet campsite, we arose to a nice calm morning. It was great to get up, have it be reasonably warm and not be in a big hurry. One of the reasons I picked this general area was because I assumed it to be not too popular, but it being Spring break, the entire area was teeming with scouts and families. I could not believe how many people were driving in the previous evening and finding a camp spot took a bit more searching than I had anticipated.

We got on the trail at 8:45am and headed up LWH canyon first. The morning was sunny, calm and warm and we were all taking it easy and having a great time. The dogs were having as good or better of a time than we were and it was fun watching them cavort and explore.

We passed the occasional large group of scouts, but fortunately, most of them seemed to be heading in the opposite direction and exposure was minimal. Many of the scouts looked a bit worn out and I was surprised that many seemed to be under prepared.

All of the obstacles (though minimal) seemed to be much easier on this trip. Sierra seemed to remember all the moves and cruised it all with ease. Shep followed Sierra, but little Kiefer was very new to exposure and jumping off rocks, so he needed a bit of assistance from time to time. It was fun to watch him try to overcome his fears and learn new tricks.

Saturday afternoon, 3/21/09 Dang/Ding Canyons

We had a leisurely lunch back at camp and then mobilized for a bit of Ding/Dang exploration. It was advertised as being difficult enough to keep the riff raff at bay, but not on this day. There were about 25+ cars at the TH, more scouts of course, people with dogs, kids etc….

We decided to take the route in reverse, as it was the quickest way to encounter the more difficult obstacles. The canyon narrowed significantly and after a bit of work, we got the dogs past the first chockstone, but this was still not one of the significant obstacles. A huge crowd passed and we made a quick preview of the first significant obstacles and as expected, it would be too much to get the dogs up.

Dave and Allison volunteered to continue the loop in the opposite direction, while Emily and I continued up Dang Canyon and we would meet in the middle. The climbing up Dang Canyon turned out to be one of the highlights of the trip, as it was a great time working our way through these problems.

Emily and I helped one another through each of the cruxes and this generally worked great, except for one large overhanging chockstone that I just could not make it past. I boosted Emily up, her using my extended hands as a step, but with nobody below me, I could not quite make it. As I was doing my best to solve the problem and on the verge of admitting defeat, a couple approached on their descent and the guy hopped down and helped me up as I had helped Emily. I returned the favor by assisting his dog and wife over the drop. A perfect trade.

After the hardest obstacles, there were a few more interesting spots, but they either had a bypass or a rope and we were having an awesome time. All too soon, the canyon ended, we made the short crossover to Ding and soon met up with Dave, Allison and the dogs.
We took our time descending, helping Kiefer down over the drops, while Sierra and Shep made easy work of the rocks.

The walk back out to the trailhead seemed long through the stinking desert (I think the smells originated from Dave and I) and we were the last car there for the day.

Sunday, 3/22/09, Crack Canyon

Headed to Crack Canyon on our way to Moab and spent a few hours exploring. It was windy as a weather front was moving through and we all had our eyes pasted with dirt. When we got to the drop that thwarted our efforts back in October with my dad, I went back up canyon for a ways and investigated some cairns we spotted earlier, and sure enough, there was a nice bypass for the dogs. We were able to head down canyon for another mile or so through some interesting rocks on the canyon floor and another great section of deep narrows before the canyon opened back up again.

Heading into the last set of narrows, Allison and Emily were a bit ahead as Dave and I were taking our time for photos. I heard some crashing rocks and in a split second, Dave and I were in full sprint yelling to the wives to “RUNNN!!!!!!” We both saw the same cloud of dust high on the wall in sync with the racket of falling rock and were not sure how big the rocks were or how much was coming down. React first, assess later is my motto. Fortunately, the rocks landed on a bench and did not make it to the valley floor. If they had gone all the way, they would have landed very near where we had just passed seconds earlier. As Roach says, “Geologic time is now”. This was a bit spooky and really got the adrenaline spiked.

The trip back was uneventful, aside from the dark clouds up-drainage, but it was not yet producing any precipitation.

Monday, 3/23/09, Moab

After a restful night sleep at La Quinta in Moab and an awesome pizza buffet at Zax, we decided to go our separate ways before we headed home. Dave and Emily headed to Arches, while Allison and I left Sierra in the room and spent the morning running (she was tired and her paws were a little sore from the sandstone canyons).

We went down Kane Creek road and parked in the large lot where people gear up for Amassa Back, Hurrah Pass and Prichett Canyon. We took Jackson’s Trail along the Colorado river and up to the top of the mesa to intersect with the Amassa Back trail. The views here were awesome and we had the place to ourselves.

After returning to the car, we had a bit of time to spare and headed into Pritchett Canyon. Tight on time, we again jogged, stopping often to take pictures and take in the scenery. It was so tough to turn around, as I was itching to peek around every corner, but checkout time at the hotel was looming and we had a long drive ahead to get home.

The trip home was complicated by a Spring storm that had closed Vail Pass. Dave and Emily gave us a heads up and we decided to take Tennessee Pass to Leadville. This worked great and we debated heading South to BV on dry roads, or heading over Fremont and back into the storm. From Fremont Pass to Bakerville, the roads were terrible, but there was no traffic on I-70 which made things less stressful. We were happy to make it home by 8:30pm, after 8:15 in the car.

Pics:

http://s147.photobucket.com/albums/r296/jeffvalliere/2009_03_21_LWH_Bell/

http://s147.photobucket.com/albums/r296/jeffvalliere/2009_03_22_Crack/

http://s147.photobucket.com/albums/r296/jeffvalliere/2009_03_23_Moab/

Longs Peak, the full version.

Longs Peak
3/19/09
20 miles
7,500 vertical
Start: Glacier Gorge TH 6:50am
Finish: Longs Peak TH 6:50pm
Jeff Valliere and Tim Long

For years I have considered a winter climb of Longs, but for whatever reasons I kept putting it off, perhaps a bit apprehensive as to whether or not I would be up for the task. Since Kevin Baker’s February climb, the thought of getting around to it this winter in the lean snow conditions seemed increasingly appealing. Several more recent trip reports found in various places on the internet indicated that the Trough was in good condition and that the much feared (feared by me when imagining typical winter conditions) Narrows and Homestretch were mostly dry.

Now all I needed was a partner. I considered going solo, but that idea was quickly shot down by Allison. I sent a few invites, hoping to coax somebody into joining me on a Thursday, the last day I had available for the winter 2008/2009 season. Dan Mottinger was interested, but could not make it and Tim Long, a good running friend of mine immediately bit, eager to climb his 2nd 14er ever and stand atop his namesake peak.

I was a bit apprehensive at first to take Tim along and warned him of what the climb entailed after we discussed his previous experience. Even after he read up on what he was getting himself into, he assured me that he was eager to give it a try and had no problem with exposure.

I picked up Tim at his house in Boulder at 5:15am and we made good time to the Glacier Gorge TH. After futzing around getting ready for a bit, we were on the trail at 6:50am, just as it was getting light. The trail was packed and I felt great. I kept my pace in check, as to not get too far ahead of Tim, but was really itching to go super fast on the approach, as I was eager to get to the mountain. We were still going a pretty good speed however, power hiking when necessary and jogging when practical.

Just beyond the N. Longs Peak Trail jct., we pass two ice climbers headed to Black Lake. We exchange pleasantries, take a few photos and continue on. We soon reach the junction for Emerald Lake and this was familiar territory for me, having come here several times in the summer over the past 12 years. Just beyond this junction, there was a split in the well packed trail and a bridge to the left, but no sign at this junction. Having read about various shortcuts and having seen random snowshoe tracks through the woods, I dismissed this and kept on heading up the more obvious trail.

After five minutes or so, I was having sneaking suspicions that turned to serious doubts, sure that we were going in the wrong direction. I told Tim that we should turn back and go investigate that previous junction a little better. Soon after turning around, about half the distance back to the junction, we bump into the ice climbers that we had previously passed and I told them that I thought we were heading the wrong way. They expressed their doubts and the maps and compasses came whipping out.

I considered bringing my GPS along on the trip, but what for?? How hard could it be? I had been to Black Lake before, RMNP has well signed trails and I typically take pride in my natural ability to find my way.

My gut feeling insisted that I was correct in my assessment that we had missed a key turn and looking at the maps bolstered my suspicions, but one of the ice climbers said “see, the compass indicates that we are heading South, not West”. This was just enough to second guess my second guess and we started heading back up the trail.

We soon arrived at The Loch and tried to convince myself that it was indeed Mills Lake, but I was still skeptical, as the view did not seem to match what I remember from my summer hike to Mills and Black Lake 10 years ago. With my mental compass spinning, I walked across the lake, feigning confidence for Tim’s sake, trying to convince him and myself that we were on the track to Black Lake. The trail was more intermittent than I expected and we ended up post holing a bit, as we opted not to bring snowshoes as I was sure there would be a packed track.

Hmmm…. This headwall seems a bit steeper than I remember and we are getting above tree line which is not right. I still can’t see Longs yet either which is a bit disconcerting. As soon as I saw the lake, I knew I had screwed up. I again busted out the map and realized for sure that we were standing on Glass Lake. I cursed myself and apologized to Tim. He was very easy going about it and I scrambled to come up with plan B. Climb Taylor, Powell or McHenrys from here? That seemed unlikely, given the terrain, my lack of familiarity with these peaks and the fact that now nobody knew where we were in case anything happened.

We decided to head back to the unmarked junction where my alarm bells went off and just hike up to Black Lake and see how that went. The whole time I was cursing myself for my stupid mistake, cursing the Park Service for not marking the junction and lamenting the fact that I just made a dumb navigational mistake that threatened our summit bid.

It should not have been that big of a deal, we probably only lost 90 minutes or so, but we both had dogs to get home to, I a wife expecting me and afternoon obligations. We arrived at Black Lake a bit after 10am and took a long break to eat and discuss our options. We both agreed that with the perfect weather, it would be a shame to turn back now. Despite the 90 minute detour and unnecessary extra credit post holing to Glass Lake, I still felt quite fresh, but I could tell that Tim was starting to feel it a bit.

In the back of my mind, I knew that we should just turn around, as bad days typically start off with one small mistake, which compounds with more consequential mistakes. As is usually the case with many people in similar circumstances, I let summit fever get the best of me and in the back of my mind, I knew that I was going to let nothing get in the way of this unique opportunity to climb Longs in winter under such perfect conditions.

Although Tim was tiring, his attitude was ever positive and optimistic and he soon indicated that he too really wanted to summit. We geared up at the base of the Trough and began the climb. I have been on much steeper snow, but with the hardness of the snow and the fact that the Trough doglegs and ends with a small cliff band, I was starting to debate whether or not I wanted to descend this way. Tim was climbing strong and seemed confident on the snow, I was quite impressed.

I asked Tim how he felt about descending the snow and he eagerly wanted to glissade it, but that option made me a bit nervous. He may have been fine, but even with the relative technical insignificance the Trough presents, I just did not feel as though it would be the best introduction to glissading. To further complicate matters, instead of wearing true crampons, I opted to wear my Kahtoola running crampons to save weight. I am also a notoriously reluctant glissader, having witnessed several accidents and the prospect of a glissade, although very appealing to some, just was not in the cards for me.

Progress on the upper stretch of the Trough became slow with the variable snow, but eventually we made it to the chockstone. Knowing the route above was dry, we stashed our technical gear here and I climbed my usual way around on climber left. Although the moves were a bit spicier with a little snow, it presented minimal difficulty and I waited at the top of the crux for Tim. As I was waiting, the wind picked up and I really needed to eat. I ducked around the corner to the start of the Narrows to escape the wind and refuel for the final stretch.

I waited for what seemed to be too long and I peeked around the corner to see what was taking Tim so long. He eventually appeared, his fleece covered with snow and he was moving very tentatively. He then informed me that he had taken a fall while attempting the crux move. From here on, the day got a bit more serious.

Concerned for Tim, I assessed his condition. He seemed nervous and rattled and informed me that he had twisted his knee and hit his calf on a rock when he fell 5 feet backwards but was otherwise OK. I told him we could turn at that point if he wanted, but he insisted that he was up to the task and wanted to continue on.

We tentatively picked our way across the Narrows. There was no significant snow to speak of, but there were some small patches that were tough to avoid and were just enough to wet the shoes and make footing a bit slick, requiring a good bit of extra care. The Homestretch was also mostly dry, but like the Narrows a few small patches of snow lingered and were just enough to wet the shoes and make things slick in spots.

We made the summit at around 1:50pm and I just wanted to get Tim down safely. I placed a quick call to Allison at work to let her know we made the summit and started to inform her of my plan to take an alternate route down, but then the call was dropped.

Even though Tim was doing great and was elated to have made the summit, I was feeling bad that I had put him through this, somewhat worried that I may have gotten him in over his head, at least a bit too much too soon. His fall and subsequent weakness of his leg had me further second guessing a descent of the Trough. Having run into a few climbers who had ascended from the Keyhole, they reported good conditions and I figured that might be a reasonable alternative, to get to easier ground more quickly and then cruise back to the TH on the apparently dry North Longs Peak Trail from Granite Pass.

We cautiously picked our way down the Homestretch, which surprisingly was easier than the ascent, using the shameful but effective butt scooting technique. Who knew a puckered behind could serve as a solid 5th point of contact? The Narrows was a snap and the crux move into the Trough was easier than anticipated. We descended to the cut off to the Keyhole and started the traverse. Before long, we came to a very steep, bulletproof snowfield we had to traverse. With full crampons, Tim easily made his way across, but with my stubby spikes, I slowly and carefully picked my way across inches at a time, as a fall here would be bad news.

The going to the Keyhole was slower than anticipated and I could tell that Tim was getting frustrated and I was now lamenting that it may have just been easier to descend the Trough after all. The Keyhole was a welcome sight and from here on I was sure it would be a quick and easy cruise to the car. Again, progress was slowed by Tim’s injured leg, but we were still doing OK and I was thankful that it was not worse. As we neared Granite Pass, I figured we could drop down the hillside and head due North and intersect the North Longs Peak Trail, saving a bit of distance.

We descended down to tree line and I was sure we would just easily traipse down the drainage, until we intersected the trail where we would be out in no time. As soon as we hit the snow in the trees, I knew we were in trouble, as it was very deep, wet, unconsolidated and we had no snowshoes. I was pissed at myself for making this mistake, on top of the last several mistakes and sure enough, just like I had talked about that morning, one mistake leads to another leads to another.

Now was the time to decide and this was my last chance to make at least one sound decision. It was 5pm and the sun was getting low. We were not lost, but with only 2.5 hours of daylight, I was not sure that it would be a good idea to try to force our way through the deep and wet snow for ~3 miles toward the car. Although very unappealing, especially to Tim who was really tiring and had a hurt leg and now aching ankle where he has screws from a previous mishap, I felt the safest option was to head 1,500+ feet back up the steep tundra slopes to Granite Pass and take the very familiar trail down to the Longs Peak TH.

It was a slog back up to the pass, especially after a long day and I kept stressing about how we would get back to my car on the opposite side of the mountain. I could not stop beating myself up for making such idiotic mistakes where I could just hear myself judging if it were somebody else. I was kicking myself for not just going down the Trough and retracing our steps, the decision seemed so recent and vivid it almost seemed within reach to alter our course. Strangely, although mentally battered, I felt fine physically and was full of energy despite not having eaten much and being low on water, but Tim was in death march mode.

I constantly tried to place a call to Allison to let her know we were OK, but I could not get good enough reception. The normally well trodden trail, split into a random network of footprints near tree line and we ended up post holing for a bit on somebody’s stupid idea of a shortcut. I knew we were on track to hit the main trail, but Tim was questioning me and why he ever joined me today, throwing in some choice words and vowing never to do winter outing again. At 6:50pm, a full 12 hours after we began, we made it to the Longs Peak TH and were relieved to be “out of the woods” so to speak.

What I had hoped would take 7-8 hours tops, took 12 hours and we were now many miles from the car and way overdue. As if on cue, a couple pulls into the lot in a rental Mustang for a quick bathroom break. I borrow their phone and their AT&T I-Phone musters up just enough power to leave a message to Allison that we are OK, but running late.

I probe a bit and find that they are visiting Estes Park from Texas and I shamelessly ask for a ride. They happily oblige and after some initial small talk, conversation stalls, the miles to the Glacier Gorge TH drag, knees stiffen in the not so roomy back seat and the sky darkens. We finally arrive at my car, creaky, hungry and parched, yet very thankful not be out in the woods for the night.

I was reluctant to even write a TR, I just wanted to stick my tail between my legs and forget about it, but a long weekend in the desert allowed me to reflect a bit and the bad feelings about the day have dulled significantly. Tim and I have discussed the lessons we learned and surprisingly, we are still friends (I was sure that he would not want anything to do with me after that wild goose chase).

It is true about what they say, one mistake leading to more mistakes. Though the initial route finding snafu only cost us 90 minutes, I think it snowballed into us (me) making hasty decisions that I may not have otherwise made had we not been pressed for time.

It was also a huge mistake to bring the wimpy crampons just to save a few ounces. When climbing Longs in winter, bring the real crampons!! What was I thinking? I’m sure Prater, Halladay, Wright would have just cruised up down in running shoes, I am just not that adept.

Although Tim is very strong, athletic, able and courageous, I would not again take a relative beginner on such a rigorous climb, especially since I myself do not feel entirely confident on such a winter climb, hence my putting off Longs for years.

This trip was certainly an eye opener for me to re-calibrate my decision making strategies. I guess if you are out there enough, you are bound to have bad days. I consider ourselves lucky that nothing worse happened despite it all and take away some valuable lessons from the experience.

Sunday, March 15, 2009

Sunday, 3/15/09 Green/Bear

Had an excellent run up Green and Bear today, it was an awesome morning to be out and I felt particularly good, at least on the ascents. Started from the Bear Creek TH and felt sluggish for the first 10 minutes or so as I was digesting breakfast and warming up. I soon started to get into a groove and focused on efficiency which soon translated into speed. All the steep sections that seemed excessively steep on Thursday, passed without notice today as I easily cruised along the trail. My splits seemed pretty good along the way, but I was still somewhat surprised to top out on Green in 49:34, a full 6 minutes faster than my last trip and it seemed sooo much easier for some reason.

After a short stop of less than a minute, I turned tail and headed back down, intending to carry on up W. Ridge to Bear, then over to S. Boulder. Along the ridge, the wind started to pick up and about then I ran into Ryan Cooper and we chatted a bit. He informed me that it was really cold up there, but how cold could it really be?

Sure enough, as I approached the summit of Bear, the wind was blowing pretty good, the temperature was cold and I was a bit chilled from my earlier efforts. I scrambled up the summit rocks, already having made the decision to skip S. Boulder, as I had no water, warm clothes and was thinking I would be better off in the long run to play it conservative for the sake of my IT band.

I slowly made the trip down Fern, going a pretty tentative pace, always aware of the IT, but it did not hurt too bad, and did not hurt at all once I got to less steep terrain which was encouraging, so I was able to cruise out faster than I have been able to run for some time.

Splits:

Bear Creek TH: 0
Mesa Trail: 9:52
Start Bear Creek Trail: 13:25
W. Ridge Jct.: 34:19
Green Summit: 49:34
W. Ridge Jct.: 1:01
Bear Summit: 1:29
Bear Creek TH: 2:07:43

Friday, March 13, 2009

Friday the 13th..... Sanitas

4.5 miles
1,700 vertical

Allison, Sierra and I got out for a fine winter afternoon stroll up Sanitas. After a nice run on Green yesterday, I was eager to up the tempo a bit, on the up at least and blow out some cobwebs. Started off fairly quick, but definitely saving a bit for the last half. Speed hiked the first steep section, ran quick tempo on the "flats" and was able to maintain a running motion most of the time, except for the steepest steps where I just power hiked through. I kept the intensity fairly high, but certainly not all out, maybe 90% at the most for a few minutes, maybe I just did not have that extra gear to go any harder anyways even if I tried. Reached the summit in 18:16. The final few minutes I was getting after it to go under 18, as it would have sounded nicer, but oh well, I was pretty happy with my time all things considered.

I walked back down to meet Allison and Sierra, as she had taken her time at the car while I went ahead. She was cruising and it was all I could do to stick with her on the finale and she topped out in 23:??. I think if she really worked at it (and was not keeping tabs on the dog), she could knock a few minutes off of this even.

We then went over to the true summit and lounged in the sun for quite some time as it was quite warm and peacful. Headed down the East ridge easily. My IT was OK, but I knew running would not be the best idea.