22.5 miles
Got out with Allison for a super easy ride to Boulder, just a casual spin, enjoying the cool and refreshing evening. Looking forward to Mt. Evans on Saturday (and maybe Thursday or Friday too if I can swing it). Anybody with a bike is welcome to join, we have 5 now, various abilities and will probably stagger start times/locations accordingly.
Sierra
Sierra
Tuesday, August 18, 2009
Monday, 8/17/09 Superflag
28 miles
1:35
Same ride as yesterday, just a bit faster with a little less effort. Felt a bit better than the previous day and started off a bit more conservative and built the effort.
16:32 to turnoff from bridge (a half minute faster than previous)
31:26 to top from bridge (a minute faster than previous)
59:58 to top from home
1:35
Same ride as yesterday, just a bit faster with a little less effort. Felt a bit better than the previous day and started off a bit more conservative and built the effort.
16:32 to turnoff from bridge (a half minute faster than previous)
31:26 to top from bridge (a minute faster than previous)
59:58 to top from home
Sunday, August 16, 2009
Sunday, 8/16/09 SuperFlag
28 miles
1:38
Headed out after work on the road bike for a quick trip up SuperFlag.
Felt better than I have, especially the foot and was eager to see how it felt in climbing mode. Much to my surprise, it felt very good, almost imperceptable. My limiting factor tonight was simple lack of fitness or specific training. Made it to the turn in 17 from the bridge, then 32:56 to the top. Far from impressive, but a little better than I anticipated, so I was happy with that. 1:03 from the house to the top, then 35 back.
Oh, this blog is back to it's original name, UpHill Adventures it is from now on!
1:38
Headed out after work on the road bike for a quick trip up SuperFlag.
Felt better than I have, especially the foot and was eager to see how it felt in climbing mode. Much to my surprise, it felt very good, almost imperceptable. My limiting factor tonight was simple lack of fitness or specific training. Made it to the turn in 17 from the bridge, then 32:56 to the top. Far from impressive, but a little better than I anticipated, so I was happy with that. 1:03 from the house to the top, then 35 back.
Oh, this blog is back to it's original name, UpHill Adventures it is from now on!
Saturday, 8/15/09 Leadville 100
My sister Darcie flew out from Virginia to visit with me, motivated by the opportunity to see Lance race again in the Leadville 100, as she is a huge fan, stemming back from her childhood when she would come to my races and swoon over Lance. She was not disappointed, as she got to see him up close 7 times, before, during and after the race.
Getting around the course to view the race was a breeze, since Kevin knew the course well as he had been to the LT100 before to participate, crew and spectate numerous times. Although there were large crowds, it never felt crowded and we never got stuck in traffic nor were we ever slowed down.
The highlight for me was watching Lance ascend the long and steep centerpiece climb called "Powerline". We were getting updates that he was leading by a large margin and anticipation of his arrival was great amongst the crowd. I watched from about half way up the climb and the crowd was going nuts as he rounded the corner, followed by a dirtbike (camera crew) and a large group of crazed spectators following close behind and along side.
As he passed, I was snapping a bunch of pictures and before I knew it, broken foot be damned, I was now part of the scrum running up the hill, camera in hand high above my head taking pictures in rapid fire mode. Before I knew it, most of the fans had peeled off and it was just me running behind. I tryed to pass on the right to get some better shots, but this happened just as the gradient was relenting and he was starting to crank up the tempo. Being careful of my foot, I backed off, content with over 100 pictures in just a few minutes. After watching the race, I am half tempted to get back into biking shape next year and give it a go.... food for thought.
My sister Darcie in a crazed dash for Lance.
Another highlight of the day was meeting and hanging out with the one and only Anton Krupicka before the race, then running into him again later in the day on Powerline. Though not surprised, I was impressed by what a likable, down to earth person he is. Hopefully we get to do some running together when I am back on my feet.
More pictures:
http://s147.photobucket.com/albums/r296/jeffvalliere/2009_08_15_Leadville/
Getting around the course to view the race was a breeze, since Kevin knew the course well as he had been to the LT100 before to participate, crew and spectate numerous times. Although there were large crowds, it never felt crowded and we never got stuck in traffic nor were we ever slowed down.
The highlight for me was watching Lance ascend the long and steep centerpiece climb called "Powerline". We were getting updates that he was leading by a large margin and anticipation of his arrival was great amongst the crowd. I watched from about half way up the climb and the crowd was going nuts as he rounded the corner, followed by a dirtbike (camera crew) and a large group of crazed spectators following close behind and along side.
As he passed, I was snapping a bunch of pictures and before I knew it, broken foot be damned, I was now part of the scrum running up the hill, camera in hand high above my head taking pictures in rapid fire mode. Before I knew it, most of the fans had peeled off and it was just me running behind. I tryed to pass on the right to get some better shots, but this happened just as the gradient was relenting and he was starting to crank up the tempo. Being careful of my foot, I backed off, content with over 100 pictures in just a few minutes. After watching the race, I am half tempted to get back into biking shape next year and give it a go.... food for thought.
My sister Darcie in a crazed dash for Lance.
Another highlight of the day was meeting and hanging out with the one and only Anton Krupicka before the race, then running into him again later in the day on Powerline. Though not surprised, I was impressed by what a likable, down to earth person he is. Hopefully we get to do some running together when I am back on my feet.
More pictures:
http://s147.photobucket.com/albums/r296/jeffvalliere/2009_08_15_Leadville/
Friday 8/14/09 Lake Isabel
~5 miles/400 vertical
First time out on a trail in a while. Allison and I took my sister Darcie up to Brainard, then hiked up to Lake Isabel. I used some light hikers with a carbon shim in my left shoe and went super slow and easy. I used poles for support which helped tremendously to keep the weight off of my bad foot. It was great to get up high, take in the wildflowers and soak in the mountain air. My sister had never really been on such a hike and was very impressed, hopefully it inspired her to come out more often and hike with us.
Pictures:
http://s147.photobucket.com/albums/r296/jeffvalliere/2009_08_14_Isabel/
First time out on a trail in a while. Allison and I took my sister Darcie up to Brainard, then hiked up to Lake Isabel. I used some light hikers with a carbon shim in my left shoe and went super slow and easy. I used poles for support which helped tremendously to keep the weight off of my bad foot. It was great to get up high, take in the wildflowers and soak in the mountain air. My sister had never really been on such a hike and was very impressed, hopefully it inspired her to come out more often and hike with us.
Pictures:
http://s147.photobucket.com/albums/r296/jeffvalliere/2009_08_14_Isabel/
Thursday, August 13, 2009
Tuesday-Thursday, 8/11/09-8/13/09
Tues- Commute to work on road bike. 30 miles.
Weds- Commute to work on road bike. 30 miles.
Thurs- 22 miles to S. Mesa TH and back with Allison in the morning. Perfect.
I am stoked to be getting out on the bike and am feeling increasingly fit, but still a bit off, as I am not really able to comfortably crank it up out of the saddle or mash big gears yet (although my typical style is to spin and not mash anyways). I am noticing improvement every day though as I walk around the house, even momentarily forgetting that I am recovering from a broken bone and I am a bit more comfortable on the bike with each passing day. I think my biggest hindrance at this point is my atrophied left leg, especially my calf, but it is coming back quicker than I expected.
As much as I try to convince myself and others that it is no biggie to be missing Pikes this year, it becomes more of a big deal as the day draws near. Reading all the chitter chat and prognosticating online and seeing the countdown timer clicking away is really bumming me out and I wish I could be toeing the line in good form, ready to give it my all. I guess I have to be patient for another year.
I wish all my friends the best of luck up on the mountain though and am excited for them, especially George, nobody deserves it more than you my friend, run a good one for me!
Weds- Commute to work on road bike. 30 miles.
Thurs- 22 miles to S. Mesa TH and back with Allison in the morning. Perfect.
I am stoked to be getting out on the bike and am feeling increasingly fit, but still a bit off, as I am not really able to comfortably crank it up out of the saddle or mash big gears yet (although my typical style is to spin and not mash anyways). I am noticing improvement every day though as I walk around the house, even momentarily forgetting that I am recovering from a broken bone and I am a bit more comfortable on the bike with each passing day. I think my biggest hindrance at this point is my atrophied left leg, especially my calf, but it is coming back quicker than I expected.
As much as I try to convince myself and others that it is no biggie to be missing Pikes this year, it becomes more of a big deal as the day draws near. Reading all the chitter chat and prognosticating online and seeing the countdown timer clicking away is really bumming me out and I wish I could be toeing the line in good form, ready to give it my all. I guess I have to be patient for another year.
I wish all my friends the best of luck up on the mountain though and am excited for them, especially George, nobody deserves it more than you my friend, run a good one for me!
Tuesday, August 11, 2009
Monday, 8/10/2009
Went to see Jeremy for my 1 month follow up x-ray. He said that my break looks to be healing right on track and said that I could ride the road bike if I am careful to not have any mishaps (i.e. something to cause me to have to come down on my foot hard). I'm not at all worried about that scenario however, as the inherent nature of cycling is risky enough as it is and many worse things could happen. Best to not dwell on the potential downsides, just ride safe a possible, wear a helmet etc....
I am out of the big Aircast boot and now wearing a much more comfortable rocker shoe with a nice stiff sole for the next two weeks. It looks very "rehab" and silly, with the two velcro straps, but is a huge upgrade over the hot and unwieldy Aircast.
After August 24th, I will try hiking with a stiff hiking boot and see how that goes, but that is subject to delay depending on how I feel. Jeremy says I should be fully healed after 8 weeks and can most likely start running, but since I am not training for anything, I may just delay that a bit and be content with hiking/biking as to take no chances.
Evening road ride:
22 miles
I am out of the big Aircast boot and now wearing a much more comfortable rocker shoe with a nice stiff sole for the next two weeks. It looks very "rehab" and silly, with the two velcro straps, but is a huge upgrade over the hot and unwieldy Aircast.
After August 24th, I will try hiking with a stiff hiking boot and see how that goes, but that is subject to delay depending on how I feel. Jeremy says I should be fully healed after 8 weeks and can most likely start running, but since I am not training for anything, I may just delay that a bit and be content with hiking/biking as to take no chances.
Evening road ride:
22 miles
Monday, August 10, 2009
Saturday, 8/08/09 Road Ride
Today I was on my own, so I rode the same route as the previous day, but added a few miles and pushed a bit harder just for kicks. I felt OK considering my lack of fitness and recovering foot, but I just resolved to spin and made it a point not to push any big gears. Took it super easy on the small hills, just sit and spin, no standing and powering over anything.
41 miles
1:51 (1:48 without traffic lights)
Ave. 22.7 mph
41 miles
1:51 (1:48 without traffic lights)
Ave. 22.7 mph
Friday, 8/7/09 Road Ride
The Beist was in town for the 5430 Tri, so he joined Allison and I for a 38 mile ride up to Hygiene and back. We took it pretty easy, easy enough to spot a un-used Co2 cartridge that I added to my flat changing arsenal and a nice pair of sunglasses in the middle of the road. Score!
Friday, August 7, 2009
Thursday, 8/06/09 Road Ride
Bolstered by my ride yesterday, Allison and I got out for a 40 miler on the road bikes. Headed up to Hygiene and looped back through Boulder. My foot felt even better and I wanted to go faster, but maintained my resolve to take it easy for the first week at least and not be pushing things. My left leg is smaller from atrophy, especially my calf muscle, so I need to equal that out before I start trying hammer. I'm so stoked to be getting back out!
Wednesday, 8/05/09 Road Ride
Got out for my first road ride in a month and first real exercise since I broke my foot. I took it pretty easy and was able to spin without putting pressure on my broken/healing bone. I ended up getting ~20 miles in a bit over an hour, no speed records, but it did wonders to bolster my outlook and spirits. My foot was no worse for the wear.
Thursday, August 6, 2009
Alaska
Wednesday, July 22nd 2009
Travel Denver to Anchorage
After dropping Sierra off at our friends’ house, we headed to DIA, parking in the Pikes Peak lot of all places and caught the shuttle to the Alaska Air desk. The line was not long, but for some reason the line was moving extremely slow. I kept patiently waiting, using my crutch for support, but eventually just went and sat down until it was our turn.
I took advantage of the complimentary wheel chair ride to the gate which was a bit of a trip, as I have never been in one before. This was actually a sweet way to get through security, as there is a separate handicapped line with no wait. Although we had plenty of time before our flight, I was feeling good about bypassing the unusually long line so quickly and not having to crutch my way through. The good feelings were short lived though, I was directed to a glass enclosure where I had to wait, balancing without my crutch. Eventually, a smug TSA guy came along and escorted me over to a seat, where he went about his job of being a smug @-hole. Nothing against fat, dumpy, picked on as a kid TSA guys wearing coke bottle glasses, but this guy was worthy of a Seinfeld or Curb Your Enthusiasm episode.
He took great pleasure of making snide remarks and flexing his great TSA Homeland Security muscle. I was outwardly annoyed by him, but at the same time amused, as I of course had nothing to worry about. It was tempting to smart off back to him, but any wise guy comments post 9-11 could clear a whole airport, so I just sucked it up. Just got me thinking about what a sad life he must have and that this is his ONLY place in the world where he has any feeling of worth. Even with this setback, it was still quicker and easier than waiting in line and we were soon on our way.
Our flight was on time, leaving around 9pm, where we headed non-stop to Anchorage. My foot quickly became swollen and started throbbing, so I took a vicoden and some ibuprofen, which unfortunately did not do much.
Thursday, July 23rd
We arrived in Anchorage around 1am local time feeling a bit whacked out from not sleeping (3am MST). Our baggage arrived without incident and we caught a cab to the RV park where Allison’s parents were awaiting our arrival (sleeping of course). After several hours of sleep (thanks to the eye mask, as it gets light a bit after 4am), we ate breakfast and headed South along the Turnagain Arm toward Seward. The Turnagain Arm is a long and narrow bay off of the Cook Inlet and has one of the largest tides in the world (~40 ft. or so). The unique topography of the inlet/sea floor and the large tides create a boar tide that comes roaring through the bay. You can literally see the several foot high walls of water stretching across the bay, marching in quick succession, one after the other, quickly covering the exposed mud flats. For some reason, every time I visit Alaska, I am continually fascinated by this phenomena.
I had been to Seward twice in the past and it was rainy both times and this trip was no exception. We found an awesome RV park at the far end of town that accommodated 10 or so RV’s and was literally right on Resurrection Bay with amazing views of the bay, and ironically Mt. Marathon. Our camp spot was a 10 minute hobble from the Sea Life Center, so we headed over there for something to do. Neat place with lots of local sea life in tanks/enclosures.
I’ll have to admit that I actually did not mind the rain in Seward. You just expect it and prepare for it. It also helped that I had a broken foot and helped minimize my urges to get out and hike up peaks. The sound of the steady rain on the metal roof of the camper is very lulling and relaxing and makes for excellent sleeping.
Friday, July 24th
Today was the much anticipated 10 hour glacier cruise to the Northwestern Glacier. We took a similar cruise to the nearby Holgate glacier in 2004, but this trip would cover some new area that we heard was very dramatic. There was some question as to whether or not the boat would actually make it to the glacier because of the choppy seas that would toss around the 70ft. SS Chugach. The swells in Resurrection Bay were not too bad, but once we got to the mouth of the bay, we were on the edge of the Gulf of Alaska which has some of the stormiest seas on earth, things got a little fun. The seas were 4-8 feet, which does not sound like much, but it made for some good rocking and rolling. I actually really enjoy it, but others on the boat were quite nauseous and several people were tossed about. It was interesting trying to get around the boat on a bum foot, but I managed pretty well.
The choppy sections were short lived though, as the majority of the route navigated relatively sheltered bays, inlets and passages. We saw several Humpback Whales, Dahl Porpoise, Sea Otters, Sea Lions, Seals, Puffins etc….
One of the highlights was a short side trip into a narrow bay ringed by sheer cliffs hundreds of feet high, where there were numerous waterfalls cascading from unknown heights and the captain of the ship nudged the front of the boat within feet of the rock wall and cascades.
Since it had been so rainy, it had spurred an increase in glacial activity and filled the bay with icebergs. We maneuvered through the ice, pushing aside small bergs that would clunk loudly under the hull, but eventually the ice got too dense and we could get no closer than ~1 mile.
Saturday, July 25th
We took our time getting out of Seward and then enjoyed the scenic drive North to Palmer on our way to Denali. On the way, we passed many cyclists heading in the opposite direction. I felt pity for them, as it was cool, windy, raining hard at times and the road was quite barren and lonely. Most of them were solo riders and they all had the same miserable look etched on their face.
We eventually stopped by the Exit Glacier for lunch and did some walking around while Allison’s parents napped in the camper. My ability to walk was getting a bit better, but it was still tedious to get around. My urge to explore always gets the best of me though and we started working our way through a game trail through the dense alders in hopes of getting closer view of an awesome hanging glacier. The whole way, I thought of Timothy Treadwell stories of the Grizzly Maze and we made enough noise as to not surprise anything that could eat us. Eventually, the writing was on the wall that attempting this with a broken foot was a bad idea, so we headed back.
Sunday, July 26th
After an excellent Alaska style breakfast in Palmer with plenty of grease and fat, we drove onward to Denali. Of course the Alaska Range was socked in with clouds, even though the weather overhead was warming and clearing, but either way, it was a quite scenic drive. Upon arriving at the park, we checked in at the campground office and proceeded West to the Teklanika Campground at mile 29 of the restricted access, bus only road (one time travel permitted by those accessing the campground). That evening, we explored a bit along the river and attended a ranger talk about Barbara Washburn, the first woman to climb Denali, and wife of Bradford Washburn, the late famous climber/photographer/cartographer.
Monday, July 27th
We had tickets for the bus out to Wonder Lake at mile 86 of the 90 mile dirt road, which worked out great, as we picked it up at the campground at mile 29, saving us over an hour of bus riding on both ends of the trip. This is truly N. America’s version of going on a safari. You can’t go a mile without seeing Grizzly Bears, Wolves, Moose, Dall Sheep, Caribou etc… Over the course of our two bus rides on the one (and only) road through the park, we counted 21 Grizzlys, 1 Wolf, 2 Moose and countless others of the aforementioned animals.
Our bus driver was very informative, but not overly yappy and not over zealous with corny humor, which was a refreshing relief. We made nice long stops for the bears (my favorite by far) and shorter stops for the grazers which worked out well. Once we made it to Eielson visitor center at mile 66, the prime viewing spot for Denali, it was unfortunately very obscured by clouds, offering occasional glimpses to ~15,000 feet. I have seen it from here on a bluebird day on a previous trip and knew what we were missing out on.
I also spied a nice trail switch backing up the hillside for ~1,200 vertical or so to a high ridge. We only had a half hour here, but Allison and I took off up the trail to see how far we could get. After 10 minutes and not gaining much distance or elevation, I decided that I should turn back and not risk hurting my foot or missing the bus, but Allison headed up a little further. Hmm…. Something to do the next day I thought.
We proceeded the final 20 miles or so to Wonder Lake, where we could catch smoke and cloud obscured glimpses of Denali’s 18,000 vertical foot Wickersham Wall. On a clear day, this would be a STUNNING stretch of road and would make an awesome bike ride. Hopefully next time.
Tuesday, July 28th
Back on the bus to the Eielson visitor center at mile 66 in hopes of better views of Denali. Between wildlife viewing stops, we had one fleeting view of the N. summit at 19,400 feet, but as quick as we realized what we were seeing, it was gone for the day. The highlight of this bus ride was seeing a wolf trotting down the road straight toward us, then casually passed our stopped bus on the side I was sitting, so I was able to snap a few good pictures. He was a skinny little guy, but it was awesome to see a wolf in the wild.
From Eielson, we headed back up the trail we surveyed the previous day. It was a bit steep, but smooth enough that I could shuffle up it with a bit of difficulty and minimal discomfort of my broken bone. I eventually perfected an awkward hobble/shuffle and set my sights on gaining the ridge crest, which for a long time seemed to be an unlikely goal. Without really trying too hard, I ended up passing just about everyone I saw ahead of me, even those with a seemingly insurmountable head start. I made it to the ridge in a surprising 35 minutes, even though I stopped a few times and got hung up for a while behind a ranger led interpretive tour. Everyone I passed seemed a little shocked and made a comment of sorts about me hiking up so high with a broken foot.
I spent a long time on the highest bump on the ridge, which seemed much like a summit, enjoying the warm and calm conditions. Though Denali was obscured, the views from here were astounding. There was a higher summit about a mile away, but it had some ups/down and looked like it would be tough to negotiate with all the talus and I opted not to push my luck, so I just called it good. The trip down was tricky, but Allison spotted me and I managed to descend safely without incident, getting down 2 minutes slower than my ascent.
To top off the day, we attended another ranger led talk in the campground about moose and learned some interesting moose facts, such as, moose can dive as deep as 30 feet underwater if need be!
Wednesday, July 29th
Our 3 night stay at the Teklanika campground was up, so we travelled 13 miles East, back toward the park entrance to the Savage River Campground. After claiming a nice spot, we headed to the main village at the park entrance to dump black/grey water, refill with fresh water and check out the main visitor center. While there, we learned of a demonstration of the dog sled teams that they use in winter to travel throughout the park. I feared that it would be corny and touristy, but it was actually quite fun to go and pat the dogs and watch them pull a sled with wheels around a dirt track. I was impressed with how excited the dogs became as they were harnessed and attached to the sled, reaching a feverish pitch and then taking off like they were shot out of a cannon with surprising speed. I can only imagine that dog sledding would be one of the coolest things to do for an outdoor enthusiast and dog lover.
Thursday, July 30th
Drove to Talkeetna, where we spent a good part of the afternoon investigating flights around Denali, but were reluctant to commit, as the skies seemed pretty cloudy. The highlight was eating at a restaurant called the “West Rib Café and Pub”. I have seen pictures and read reports of famished climbers replenishing calories here after big climbs, indulging in giant burgers, fries and beers. I had to see what all the fuss was about and was not let down. Sitting on the outdoor patio was very pleasant and the burgers and fries were awesome. I can’t comment on the beer, as I don’t drink beer, but Allison seemed to like it.
Friday, July 31st
After a peaceful night sleep in a free “camp spot” on the backside of an abandoned building next to the airport, we awoke to clearing skies overhead and eagerly decided to commit to a sightseeing flight. We headed over to K2 Air and made arrangements for their flight that goes around Denali, passing Hunter, Foraker, Huntington, Moose’s Tooth and passes through the Ruth Gorge.
As soon as we got up above the trees, we could see what should be the Alaska Range, but was a wall of clouds instead. We still headed in that direction with great hopes, but the ceiling was about 8,000 feet and we “just” ended up flying through the Ruth Gorge (9,000 feet deep) and into the Sheldon Amphitheater. As we were looping around, I could see a small clearing toward Denali and could tell that there was abundant blue sky on the other side, but we had killed too much time flying around the Sheldon Amphitheater and “Little Switzerland”. Although I went into it knowing full well I should not get my hopes up, I couldn’t help but to get excited about the prospects of such a flight. Although we flew past some awesome scenery, it was still a bit of a let down to have to turn around so soon. We got a small discount because of the amended flight, but it was still expensive.
That afternoon, we took our time getting back to Anchorage, where we caught our 10:55pm flight back to Denver. Ironically, the most complete view we got of the Alaska Range was as soon as we took off from Anchorage, as the highest peaks were soaring above the clouds, with the midnight sun creating a magical backdrop. This was my 5th trip to Alaska and it never disappoints. I can’t wait to go again!
Pictures:
http://s147.photobucket.com/albums/r296/jeffvalliere/2009_07_23_Alaska/
Travel Denver to Anchorage
After dropping Sierra off at our friends’ house, we headed to DIA, parking in the Pikes Peak lot of all places and caught the shuttle to the Alaska Air desk. The line was not long, but for some reason the line was moving extremely slow. I kept patiently waiting, using my crutch for support, but eventually just went and sat down until it was our turn.
I took advantage of the complimentary wheel chair ride to the gate which was a bit of a trip, as I have never been in one before. This was actually a sweet way to get through security, as there is a separate handicapped line with no wait. Although we had plenty of time before our flight, I was feeling good about bypassing the unusually long line so quickly and not having to crutch my way through. The good feelings were short lived though, I was directed to a glass enclosure where I had to wait, balancing without my crutch. Eventually, a smug TSA guy came along and escorted me over to a seat, where he went about his job of being a smug @-hole. Nothing against fat, dumpy, picked on as a kid TSA guys wearing coke bottle glasses, but this guy was worthy of a Seinfeld or Curb Your Enthusiasm episode.
He took great pleasure of making snide remarks and flexing his great TSA Homeland Security muscle. I was outwardly annoyed by him, but at the same time amused, as I of course had nothing to worry about. It was tempting to smart off back to him, but any wise guy comments post 9-11 could clear a whole airport, so I just sucked it up. Just got me thinking about what a sad life he must have and that this is his ONLY place in the world where he has any feeling of worth. Even with this setback, it was still quicker and easier than waiting in line and we were soon on our way.
Our flight was on time, leaving around 9pm, where we headed non-stop to Anchorage. My foot quickly became swollen and started throbbing, so I took a vicoden and some ibuprofen, which unfortunately did not do much.
Thursday, July 23rd
We arrived in Anchorage around 1am local time feeling a bit whacked out from not sleeping (3am MST). Our baggage arrived without incident and we caught a cab to the RV park where Allison’s parents were awaiting our arrival (sleeping of course). After several hours of sleep (thanks to the eye mask, as it gets light a bit after 4am), we ate breakfast and headed South along the Turnagain Arm toward Seward. The Turnagain Arm is a long and narrow bay off of the Cook Inlet and has one of the largest tides in the world (~40 ft. or so). The unique topography of the inlet/sea floor and the large tides create a boar tide that comes roaring through the bay. You can literally see the several foot high walls of water stretching across the bay, marching in quick succession, one after the other, quickly covering the exposed mud flats. For some reason, every time I visit Alaska, I am continually fascinated by this phenomena.
I had been to Seward twice in the past and it was rainy both times and this trip was no exception. We found an awesome RV park at the far end of town that accommodated 10 or so RV’s and was literally right on Resurrection Bay with amazing views of the bay, and ironically Mt. Marathon. Our camp spot was a 10 minute hobble from the Sea Life Center, so we headed over there for something to do. Neat place with lots of local sea life in tanks/enclosures.
I’ll have to admit that I actually did not mind the rain in Seward. You just expect it and prepare for it. It also helped that I had a broken foot and helped minimize my urges to get out and hike up peaks. The sound of the steady rain on the metal roof of the camper is very lulling and relaxing and makes for excellent sleeping.
Friday, July 24th
Today was the much anticipated 10 hour glacier cruise to the Northwestern Glacier. We took a similar cruise to the nearby Holgate glacier in 2004, but this trip would cover some new area that we heard was very dramatic. There was some question as to whether or not the boat would actually make it to the glacier because of the choppy seas that would toss around the 70ft. SS Chugach. The swells in Resurrection Bay were not too bad, but once we got to the mouth of the bay, we were on the edge of the Gulf of Alaska which has some of the stormiest seas on earth, things got a little fun. The seas were 4-8 feet, which does not sound like much, but it made for some good rocking and rolling. I actually really enjoy it, but others on the boat were quite nauseous and several people were tossed about. It was interesting trying to get around the boat on a bum foot, but I managed pretty well.
The choppy sections were short lived though, as the majority of the route navigated relatively sheltered bays, inlets and passages. We saw several Humpback Whales, Dahl Porpoise, Sea Otters, Sea Lions, Seals, Puffins etc….
One of the highlights was a short side trip into a narrow bay ringed by sheer cliffs hundreds of feet high, where there were numerous waterfalls cascading from unknown heights and the captain of the ship nudged the front of the boat within feet of the rock wall and cascades.
Since it had been so rainy, it had spurred an increase in glacial activity and filled the bay with icebergs. We maneuvered through the ice, pushing aside small bergs that would clunk loudly under the hull, but eventually the ice got too dense and we could get no closer than ~1 mile.
Saturday, July 25th
We took our time getting out of Seward and then enjoyed the scenic drive North to Palmer on our way to Denali. On the way, we passed many cyclists heading in the opposite direction. I felt pity for them, as it was cool, windy, raining hard at times and the road was quite barren and lonely. Most of them were solo riders and they all had the same miserable look etched on their face.
We eventually stopped by the Exit Glacier for lunch and did some walking around while Allison’s parents napped in the camper. My ability to walk was getting a bit better, but it was still tedious to get around. My urge to explore always gets the best of me though and we started working our way through a game trail through the dense alders in hopes of getting closer view of an awesome hanging glacier. The whole way, I thought of Timothy Treadwell stories of the Grizzly Maze and we made enough noise as to not surprise anything that could eat us. Eventually, the writing was on the wall that attempting this with a broken foot was a bad idea, so we headed back.
Sunday, July 26th
After an excellent Alaska style breakfast in Palmer with plenty of grease and fat, we drove onward to Denali. Of course the Alaska Range was socked in with clouds, even though the weather overhead was warming and clearing, but either way, it was a quite scenic drive. Upon arriving at the park, we checked in at the campground office and proceeded West to the Teklanika Campground at mile 29 of the restricted access, bus only road (one time travel permitted by those accessing the campground). That evening, we explored a bit along the river and attended a ranger talk about Barbara Washburn, the first woman to climb Denali, and wife of Bradford Washburn, the late famous climber/photographer/cartographer.
Monday, July 27th
We had tickets for the bus out to Wonder Lake at mile 86 of the 90 mile dirt road, which worked out great, as we picked it up at the campground at mile 29, saving us over an hour of bus riding on both ends of the trip. This is truly N. America’s version of going on a safari. You can’t go a mile without seeing Grizzly Bears, Wolves, Moose, Dall Sheep, Caribou etc… Over the course of our two bus rides on the one (and only) road through the park, we counted 21 Grizzlys, 1 Wolf, 2 Moose and countless others of the aforementioned animals.
Our bus driver was very informative, but not overly yappy and not over zealous with corny humor, which was a refreshing relief. We made nice long stops for the bears (my favorite by far) and shorter stops for the grazers which worked out well. Once we made it to Eielson visitor center at mile 66, the prime viewing spot for Denali, it was unfortunately very obscured by clouds, offering occasional glimpses to ~15,000 feet. I have seen it from here on a bluebird day on a previous trip and knew what we were missing out on.
I also spied a nice trail switch backing up the hillside for ~1,200 vertical or so to a high ridge. We only had a half hour here, but Allison and I took off up the trail to see how far we could get. After 10 minutes and not gaining much distance or elevation, I decided that I should turn back and not risk hurting my foot or missing the bus, but Allison headed up a little further. Hmm…. Something to do the next day I thought.
We proceeded the final 20 miles or so to Wonder Lake, where we could catch smoke and cloud obscured glimpses of Denali’s 18,000 vertical foot Wickersham Wall. On a clear day, this would be a STUNNING stretch of road and would make an awesome bike ride. Hopefully next time.
Tuesday, July 28th
Back on the bus to the Eielson visitor center at mile 66 in hopes of better views of Denali. Between wildlife viewing stops, we had one fleeting view of the N. summit at 19,400 feet, but as quick as we realized what we were seeing, it was gone for the day. The highlight of this bus ride was seeing a wolf trotting down the road straight toward us, then casually passed our stopped bus on the side I was sitting, so I was able to snap a few good pictures. He was a skinny little guy, but it was awesome to see a wolf in the wild.
From Eielson, we headed back up the trail we surveyed the previous day. It was a bit steep, but smooth enough that I could shuffle up it with a bit of difficulty and minimal discomfort of my broken bone. I eventually perfected an awkward hobble/shuffle and set my sights on gaining the ridge crest, which for a long time seemed to be an unlikely goal. Without really trying too hard, I ended up passing just about everyone I saw ahead of me, even those with a seemingly insurmountable head start. I made it to the ridge in a surprising 35 minutes, even though I stopped a few times and got hung up for a while behind a ranger led interpretive tour. Everyone I passed seemed a little shocked and made a comment of sorts about me hiking up so high with a broken foot.
I spent a long time on the highest bump on the ridge, which seemed much like a summit, enjoying the warm and calm conditions. Though Denali was obscured, the views from here were astounding. There was a higher summit about a mile away, but it had some ups/down and looked like it would be tough to negotiate with all the talus and I opted not to push my luck, so I just called it good. The trip down was tricky, but Allison spotted me and I managed to descend safely without incident, getting down 2 minutes slower than my ascent.
To top off the day, we attended another ranger led talk in the campground about moose and learned some interesting moose facts, such as, moose can dive as deep as 30 feet underwater if need be!
Wednesday, July 29th
Our 3 night stay at the Teklanika campground was up, so we travelled 13 miles East, back toward the park entrance to the Savage River Campground. After claiming a nice spot, we headed to the main village at the park entrance to dump black/grey water, refill with fresh water and check out the main visitor center. While there, we learned of a demonstration of the dog sled teams that they use in winter to travel throughout the park. I feared that it would be corny and touristy, but it was actually quite fun to go and pat the dogs and watch them pull a sled with wheels around a dirt track. I was impressed with how excited the dogs became as they were harnessed and attached to the sled, reaching a feverish pitch and then taking off like they were shot out of a cannon with surprising speed. I can only imagine that dog sledding would be one of the coolest things to do for an outdoor enthusiast and dog lover.
Thursday, July 30th
Drove to Talkeetna, where we spent a good part of the afternoon investigating flights around Denali, but were reluctant to commit, as the skies seemed pretty cloudy. The highlight was eating at a restaurant called the “West Rib Café and Pub”. I have seen pictures and read reports of famished climbers replenishing calories here after big climbs, indulging in giant burgers, fries and beers. I had to see what all the fuss was about and was not let down. Sitting on the outdoor patio was very pleasant and the burgers and fries were awesome. I can’t comment on the beer, as I don’t drink beer, but Allison seemed to like it.
Friday, July 31st
After a peaceful night sleep in a free “camp spot” on the backside of an abandoned building next to the airport, we awoke to clearing skies overhead and eagerly decided to commit to a sightseeing flight. We headed over to K2 Air and made arrangements for their flight that goes around Denali, passing Hunter, Foraker, Huntington, Moose’s Tooth and passes through the Ruth Gorge.
As soon as we got up above the trees, we could see what should be the Alaska Range, but was a wall of clouds instead. We still headed in that direction with great hopes, but the ceiling was about 8,000 feet and we “just” ended up flying through the Ruth Gorge (9,000 feet deep) and into the Sheldon Amphitheater. As we were looping around, I could see a small clearing toward Denali and could tell that there was abundant blue sky on the other side, but we had killed too much time flying around the Sheldon Amphitheater and “Little Switzerland”. Although I went into it knowing full well I should not get my hopes up, I couldn’t help but to get excited about the prospects of such a flight. Although we flew past some awesome scenery, it was still a bit of a let down to have to turn around so soon. We got a small discount because of the amended flight, but it was still expensive.
That afternoon, we took our time getting back to Anchorage, where we caught our 10:55pm flight back to Denver. Ironically, the most complete view we got of the Alaska Range was as soon as we took off from Anchorage, as the highest peaks were soaring above the clouds, with the midnight sun creating a magical backdrop. This was my 5th trip to Alaska and it never disappoints. I can’t wait to go again!
Pictures:
http://s147.photobucket.com/albums/r296/jeffvalliere/2009_07_23_Alaska/
Friday, July 17, 2009
7/17/09 Racing Old Ladies
Recovery is coming along, I am feeling less pain every day, but every now and then I get some unsolicited throbbing to remind me that my bone is still broken, just in case I am tempted to forget. Days at work are actually better than being at home from a mental standpoint, as I have to be there anyways. Having a few days off now is a real test of mental fortitude, as seeing Allison and Sierra leave early in the morning to go climb Bierstadt was tough, as is driving and looking at the mountains on a bluebird day. Once live coverage of Le Tour ends each morning, I am brimming with energy and itching to get outside and play.
Yesterday I ran a few errands in Boulder, one being a trip to the DMV to renew my registration. As I was getting out of the car, I noticed an 80ish year old woman getting out of her car and preparing to go inside. For some reason, habit and instinct I guess, I knew I had to beat her across the lot and into the building so I could get my number before her. I scrambled to get the crutches out of the back of my Element and quickly set off across the lot in hot pursuit. She had a pretty good gap, but I was able to close it down by the time we reached the curb before the front door. She had the advantage here, but I quickly recovered and made it to the door with a good 30+ foot advantage. I tagged the handi door opener and cruised across the lobby in with a strong sense of satisfaction, although not quite like beating Dave up Bear Peak ;).
I grabbed ticket #144 and waited my turn. Once I was up, I soon realized that they do not accept credit cards...... cash or check only. WTF! Are they serious? In this day and age? I normally carry around one check in my wallet, for stupid times like these, but today I was SOL. I bit my tongue, as it was not the clerk's fault and gimped my way to my bank, which fortunately was just down the street.
As I returned, I noticed the old lady was leaving, new sticker in hand. Guess she had the last laugh afterall. Once I finished my errands, I stopped by Boulder Creek and sat with my feet in the water for about an hour enjoying the summer day. It was a bit of torture, watching all the bikes and runners cruise by, but I will be back at it before I know it.
Yesterday I ran a few errands in Boulder, one being a trip to the DMV to renew my registration. As I was getting out of the car, I noticed an 80ish year old woman getting out of her car and preparing to go inside. For some reason, habit and instinct I guess, I knew I had to beat her across the lot and into the building so I could get my number before her. I scrambled to get the crutches out of the back of my Element and quickly set off across the lot in hot pursuit. She had a pretty good gap, but I was able to close it down by the time we reached the curb before the front door. She had the advantage here, but I quickly recovered and made it to the door with a good 30+ foot advantage. I tagged the handi door opener and cruised across the lobby in with a strong sense of satisfaction, although not quite like beating Dave up Bear Peak ;).
I grabbed ticket #144 and waited my turn. Once I was up, I soon realized that they do not accept credit cards...... cash or check only. WTF! Are they serious? In this day and age? I normally carry around one check in my wallet, for stupid times like these, but today I was SOL. I bit my tongue, as it was not the clerk's fault and gimped my way to my bank, which fortunately was just down the street.
As I returned, I noticed the old lady was leaving, new sticker in hand. Guess she had the last laugh afterall. Once I finished my errands, I stopped by Boulder Creek and sat with my feet in the water for about an hour enjoying the summer day. It was a bit of torture, watching all the bikes and runners cruise by, but I will be back at it before I know it.
Monday, July 13, 2009
Monday, 7/13/09 Broken Foot!
Well, went to see Jeremy today, had my foot x-rayed again and it is officially broken. The ligaments are also a bit stretched/torn which explains the swelling. Rather than lament about the obvious negatives of having this happen in July, I am thankful that the bone is only broken 75% of the way across and not fully through, which sounds like it would be a real mess to fix.
As it stands now, I have to wear a stiff plastic removable boot for 1 full month, all the time, while using crutches as to put no weight on it. I was also forbidden to ride my bike and thus no Mt. Evans bike race on Saturday (I was thinking of signing up). After the month is up, then it was suggested that I take it fairly easy for another month or so, which means biking for me at that point.
Also on the plus side, I am thankful that it is not cold and snowy, which would be a real pain to hobble crutch around. I also get a pass from walking the dog before/after work, can probably escape houshold chores and there will certainly be no lawn mowing. As an additional bonus, the Tour continues for 2 more weeks and I have the VS. channel and a swell DVR player.
My upcoming 10 day trip to Alaska will have to be experienced like most Americans, from a comfortable seat, no runs up Mt. Marathon, Mt. Healy, Pioneer Peak......
As it stands now, I have to wear a stiff plastic removable boot for 1 full month, all the time, while using crutches as to put no weight on it. I was also forbidden to ride my bike and thus no Mt. Evans bike race on Saturday (I was thinking of signing up). After the month is up, then it was suggested that I take it fairly easy for another month or so, which means biking for me at that point.
Also on the plus side, I am thankful that it is not cold and snowy, which would be a real pain to hobble crutch around. I also get a pass from walking the dog before/after work, can probably escape houshold chores and there will certainly be no lawn mowing. As an additional bonus, the Tour continues for 2 more weeks and I have the VS. channel and a swell DVR player.
My upcoming 10 day trip to Alaska will have to be experienced like most Americans, from a comfortable seat, no runs up Mt. Marathon, Mt. Healy, Pioneer Peak......
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